🔧 Journey - Spark Plug Replacement

On your Journey’s 2.4L engine, the spark plugs sit down in “plug wells” under the ignition coils. Replacing them restores strong spark, helps prevent misfires, and keeps fuel economy and idle quality where they should be.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: 2.4L uses coil-on-plug (one coil per cylinder) serviced from the top.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and to protect the aluminum cylinder head threads.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the plug wells; debris can fall into the cylinder when a plug comes out.
• ⚠️ If you disconnect the battery: use a 10mm wrench and remove the negative terminal first.
• ⚠️ Do not use anti-seize on modern plated spark plugs unless the plug manufacturer specifically requires it.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
• 5/8" (16mm) spark plug socket
• Torque wrench (10-30 ft-lb range)
• Small flat trim tool
• Compressed air blow gun
• Shop vacuum
• Flashlight
• Feeler gauge set (0.020"-0.060")

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Spark plugs (2.4L-spec) - Qty: 4
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Optional but recommended: disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench.
• Lay out parts in order. You’ll reinstall coils in the same locations.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Use your hands to pull the cover straight up off the rubber grommets, or remove any fasteners using a 10mm socket.
• Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Unplug the ignition coil connectors

• Locate the 4 ignition coils on top of the engine.
• Use a small flat trim tool to gently release the connector lock (a small safety tab), then pull the connector off.
• Tip: Pull on the connector body, not the wires.

Step 3: Remove the ignition coils

• Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up to remove it from the spark plug well.
• Set each coil aside in order (Cylinder 1 to 4). This helps if you’re diagnosing a coil later.
• Reinstall torque later: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb).
• “Ignition coil” = the part that makes high voltage for the plug.

Step 4: Clean the spark plug wells

• Use a shop vacuum around each plug well.
• Then use a compressed air blow gun to blow out any remaining dirt.
• This prevents debris from falling into the cylinder when the plug is removed.

Step 5: Remove the old spark plugs

• Install a 5/8" (16mm) spark plug socket onto a 3/8" drive extension and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lower the socket straight down into the plug well until it fully seats on the plug.
• Turn counterclockwise to loosen, then remove the plug.
• If a plug feels extremely tight, stop and work it slowly to avoid damaging threads in the aluminum head.

Step 6: Check and prep the new spark plugs

• Verify the new plugs match the old ones (same thread length and seat style).
• Check the gap using a feeler gauge set (gap spec varies by plug application). If the box says “pre-gapped,” still verify.
• Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
• “Dielectric grease” = silicone grease to prevent moisture/tearing.

Step 7: Install the new spark plugs (don’t cross-thread)

• Place a new plug into the 5/8" (16mm) spark plug socket.
• Thread it in by hand using only the extension (no ratchet at first). It should spin easily.
• If it doesn’t thread smoothly, back it out and try again. Forcing it can ruin the cylinder head threads.
• Once seated, torque with a torque wrench: Torque to 17 Nm (13 ft-lb).

Step 8: Reinstall ignition coils

• Push each coil straight down onto its spark plug until fully seated.
• Install the hold-down bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb).

Step 9: Reconnect connectors and reinstall the engine cover

• Push each coil connector on until it clicks/locks.
• Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it onto the grommets (or tighten fasteners with a 10mm socket if equipped).
• If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm wrench.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
• If the check engine light comes on or it runs rough, re-check that every coil connector is fully seated and each coil is bolted down.
• Take a short test drive. Verify normal power and no flashing check engine light (flashing means misfire—stop driving).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $180-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.