How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2016 Nissan Murano (Driver & Passenger)
Step-by-step door panel removal, wiring disconnect, tools/parts list, and 7.5 Nm torque spec tips
How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2016 Nissan Murano (Driver & Passenger)
Step-by-step door panel removal, wiring disconnect, tools/parts list, and 7.5 Nm torque spec tips


đź”§ Murano - Side View Mirror Replacement
You’ll remove the interior door trim panel, unplug the mirror wiring, unbolt the mirror from the door, then install the new mirror and reassemble. This is a straightforward job, but you must work carefully around plastic clips and the door’s side airbag area.
Assumption: Your Murano has standard power mirrors (no camera/auto-dimming). Steps are the same; only the electrical connector may differ.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one mirror), 2.0-3.5 hours (both)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before door work to reduce accidental airbag/short risk.
- ⚠️ Do not probe yellow airbag connectors or wiring; leave them alone.
- ⚠️ Support the door panel as you unplug connectors so nothing hangs by the wires.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; trim clips can pop loose suddenly.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Plastic trim removal tool set
- Panel clip pliers
- Torque wrench (5-25 Nm range)
- Pick tool
- Painter’s tape
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Side view mirror assembly (left/driver) - Qty: 1
- Side view mirror assembly (right/passenger) - Qty: 1
- Door trim panel clips - Qty: 6-12
- Butyl adhesive strip (vapor barrier reseal) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and remove the key/fob from the cabin.
- Use painter’s tape to protect paint near the mirror and door edge.
- Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket on the negative terminal and isolate the cable so it can’t spring back.
- Have a small container ready for screws so nothing gets lost.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the window switch panel
- Use a plastic trim removal tool set to gently pry up the window switch panel from the armrest.
- Unplug the electrical connector(s) using a pick tool to lift the locking tab (a locking tab is a small catch that prevents unplugging by accident).
Step 2: Remove door-handle and armrest screws
- Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to pop off the small trim covers hiding the screws (go slowly to avoid marking the plastic).
- Remove the exposed screws with a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
Step 3: Release the door panel clips
- Slide a plastic trim removal tool set under the lower edge of the door panel and pop the clips free one-by-one.
- If a clip is stubborn, use panel clip pliers to pull straight out (this helps prevent breaking the clip).
- Work around the panel, not in one spot.
Step 4: Lift the door panel up and disconnect wiring
- Lift the door panel straight upward to unhook it from the top window ledge.
- Support the panel with your knee or a box, then unplug any remaining connectors using the pick tool.
Step 5: Peel back the vapor barrier (water shield)
- Carefully peel the plastic water shield back near the mirror area using a plastic trim removal tool set.
- Do not tear it; you must reseal it to prevent water leaks and wind noise.
Step 6: Remove the interior mirror sail trim
- At the front top corner of the door (inside), remove the triangular trim cover using a plastic trim removal tool set.
- Pull straight toward you to release its clips.
Step 7: Unplug the mirror electrical connector
- Find the mirror connector behind the sail trim area and unplug it using the pick tool to release the lock.
Step 8: Unbolt and remove the mirror
- Support the mirror with one hand from the outside so it doesn’t fall.
- Use a 10mm socket, 3" extension (1/4" drive), and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the mirror mounting nuts/bolts.
- If a nut drops inside the door, retrieve it with a magnetic pickup tool.
- Pull the mirror away from the door and guide the wiring through the opening.
Step 9: Install the new mirror
- Feed the new mirror wiring through the door opening and seat the mirror on the door.
- Start the mounting nuts/bolts by hand first (this prevents cross-threading).
- Tighten using a 10mm socket and then final-tighten with a torque wrench (5-25 Nm range).
- Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs) for the mirror mounting nuts/bolts.
Step 10: Reconnect wiring and reassemble the door
- Plug in the mirror connector until it clicks.
- Reinstall the sail trim by pressing it into place.
- Press the vapor barrier back onto the adhesive; use butyl adhesive strip if it won’t stick or has gaps.
- Reconnect all door panel connectors (window switch, locks, etc.).
- Hang the door panel on the top window ledge and push downward to seat it.
- Snap all perimeter clips in by pressing firmly with your hands.
- Reinstall screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, then reinstall the trim covers using the small flat-blade screwdriver gently.
- Reinstall the window switch panel and plug it in first, then press it down to snap in.
Step 11: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Turn the ignition on and test mirror movement in all directions.
- Test window, door lock, and door handle function before you fully close up tools.
- Check for wind noise on a short drive; if you hear whistling, recheck sail trim seating and vapor barrier seal.
- If the mirror is painted, avoid washing/waxing for 48 hours after install.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor, per mirror)
DIY Cost: $90-$350 (parts only, per mirror)
You Save: $160-$300+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours per side.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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