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2021 Toyota Tacoma
2016 - 2023 Toyota Tacoma
SR Crew Cab Pickup
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
  • /
  • Toyota Tacoma
  • /
  • 2016 to 2023
  • /
  • How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: TRD Sport | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)
3rd Gen 2016-2021 Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro Side Mirror Replacement DIY Installation Guide, Mod #20

3rd Gen 2016-2021 Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro Side Mirror Replacement DIY Installation Guide, Mod #20

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
Trim
Trim
Tool
Flathead
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Screwdriver
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How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: TRD Sport | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY mirror replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: TRD Sport | Body: Extended Cab Pickup)

Step-by-step DIY mirror replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Tacoma - Side View Mirror Replacement

You’ll be removing the interior mirror trim, unbolting the old mirror, moving the wiring connector, and installing the new mirror on your Tacoma. This is mostly light interior work plus a few bolts from inside the door.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours per side


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🔹Always work on level ground with the engine off, parking brake set, and the key out of the ignition.
  • 🔹Your Tacoma has side airbags in the doors; to avoid any chance of accidental deployment, disconnect the negative battery cable before touching door trim or wiring.
  • 🔹Support the mirror with one hand when removing the last nut so it doesn’t fall and chip the paint.
  • 🔹If your mirrors have turn signals, heaters, or blind spot indicators, be gentle with the wiring connectors to avoid damage.
  • 🔹Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect your eyes and hands from clips and sharp metal edges.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 🔹10mm socket
  • 🔹1/4" drive ratchet
  • 🔹1/4" drive extension (3"-6")
  • 🔹Trim removal tool set (plastic)
  • 🔹Small flathead screwdriver
  • 🔹Phillips screwdriver
  • 🔹Torque wrench (inch-lb or low-range ft-lb)
  • 🔹Panel clip pliers (specialty)
  • 🔹Shop light or flashlight
  • 🔹Mechanic gloves
  • 🔹Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 🔹Left side view mirror assembly (power, TRD Sport spec) - Qty: 1 (if replacing driver side)
  • 🔹Right side view mirror assembly (power, TRD Sport spec) - Qty: 1 (if replacing passenger side)
  • 🔹Mirror assemblies with correct options (heat/turn signal/BSM/puddle light as equipped) - Qty: 1 per side
  • 🔹Mirror mounting nuts (10mm, replacement) - Qty: 3 per mirror
  • 🔹Mirror sail panel clips - Qty: 2-3 per side
  • 🔹Butyl strip or thin foam tape (for any loose trim rattle) - Qty: 1 roll
  • 🔹Electrical contact cleaner (for connectors) - Qty: 1
  • 🔹Masking tape - Qty: 1 roll

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • 🔹Park your Tacoma on level ground, set the parking brake, and lower the window on the side you’re working on. This gives you easier access to the interior trim.
  • 🔹Open the door fully and put a towel over the top of the door panel to protect from scratches.
  • 🔹Turn ignition OFF, remove the key, wait at least 2 minutes.
  • 🔹Disconnect the negative battery terminal:
    • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamp on the negative (black) battery post.
    • Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the terminal.
  • 🔹If you have memory seats or radio presets, they may reset when the battery is disconnected; you can reprogram them after the job.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Protect the paint and glass

  • Place masking tape around the base of the mirror on the outside of the door to protect the paint from accidental tool contact.
  • Lay a towel on the ground under the mirror area in case you drop a nut or small part.

Step 2: Remove the interior mirror trim (sail panel)

  • The "sail panel" is the small triangular interior trim piece at the front top corner of the door panel, next to the mirror.
  • Use a trim removal tool set (plastic) and gently pry at the edge of the sail panel starting from the top.
  • Work the trim tool around until you feel the clips pop free. There are usually 2-3 plastic clips holding it.
  • If there is a small foam pad, retain it; it helps reduce wind noise.
  • Pull straight outward to avoid breaking clips

Step 3: Disconnect any tweeter speaker (if equipped)

  • If your Tacoma has a small speaker in the sail panel, you’ll see a connector attached to the panel.
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift the locking tab on the connector.
  • Separate the connector by pulling on the plug body, not the wires.

Step 4: Locate the mirror wiring connector

  • With the sail panel removed, you’ll see the mirror wiring running through the door and a connector near the mirror mounting area.
  • If it’s tucked into the door, gently pull it out a bit using your fingers so you can access the connector.
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver if needed to unclip the harness from any plastic retainers.

Step 5: Disconnect the mirror wiring

  • Press the small release tab on the mirror connector with your thumb or a small flathead screwdriver.
  • Pull the two halves of the connector apart, keeping the locking tab pressed.
  • If contacts look dirty, lightly spray with electrical contact cleaner and let dry.

Step 6: Remove the mirror mounting nuts

  • You’ll see three mirror mounting studs with nuts (10mm heads) holding the mirror to the door.
  • Support the mirror from the outside with one hand so it doesn’t fall when the last nut comes off.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and extension to loosen and remove the three nuts from inside the door.
  • Place the nuts in a safe container so they don’t get lost.
  • Leave the top nut for last while holding the mirror

Step 7: Remove the old mirror

  • With all three nuts removed, gently pull the mirror outward from the door from the outside.
  • Carefully feed the wiring harness and connector out through the hole in the door.
  • Set the old mirror aside somewhere safe so the glass doesn’t crack.

Step 8: Prepare the new mirror

  • Compare the new mirror to the old mirror:
    • Check connector shape and number of pins.
    • Check features: turn signal, heating, blind spot indicator, puddle light, etc.
  • If any foam gasket or seal stayed on the door, either reuse it if in good shape or use the new gasket that comes attached to the new mirror.
  • Features and connector must match exactly

Step 9: Install the new mirror in the door

  • From outside the door, feed the new mirror’s wiring harness and connector through the same hole the old one came out of.
  • Align the three mirror mounting studs with the holes in the door.
  • Hold the mirror flush against the door with one hand from outside.
  • From inside the door, start one of the mirror mounting nuts by hand on a stud to hold the mirror in place.

Step 10: Tighten the mirror mounting nuts

  • Install the remaining two nuts by hand on the other studs.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and extension to snug all three nuts evenly.
  • Then use a torque wrench with the 10mm socket to tighten each nut to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
  • Do not overtighten; too much torque can crack the mirror base or deform the door skin.

Step 11: Reconnect the mirror wiring

  • Plug the mirror connector back into the door-side connector until it clicks.
  • Make sure the locking tab snaps fully into place.
  • Re-clip the harness to any plastic retainers in the door using your fingers or panel clip pliers (specialty) if needed so the wire won’t rattle.

Step 12: Reinstall the tweeter speaker (if equipped)

  • If you unplugged a tweeter:
    • Reconnect the speaker connector by pushing the two halves together until they click.
    • Make sure the wire is routed so it won’t be pinched by the sail panel.

Step 13: Reinstall the sail panel

  • Check that all plastic clips on the sail panel are present and straight. Replace any broken clips with new ones.
  • Align the bottom edge of the sail panel with the door panel and the top edge with the A-pillar trim.
  • Press firmly by hand around the sail panel to snap each clip back into place. You should feel or hear them click.
  • Push near clips, not in the middle of panel

Step 14: Reconnect the battery

  • Under the hood, place the negative battery cable back on the negative (black) terminal.
  • Use a 10mm socket to tighten the clamp snugly. Do not overtighten, just secure enough that it won’t move.
  • Turn the steering wheel slowly full left and right once you start the truck later; this can help some systems re-learn steering angle if they need to.

Step 15: Repeat for the other side (if needed)

  • Perform the same steps on the other door if you are replacing both mirrors.
  • Do one side completely before starting the other to avoid mixing parts.

âś… After Repair

  • 🔹Turn ignition ON (engine can stay off at first) and test:
    • Mirror glass movement in all directions using the interior switch.
    • Heated mirrors (if equipped) by turning on rear defogger and feeling them warm after a few minutes.
    • Turn signal in mirror (if equipped) by signaling left/right.
    • Blind spot indicator light in mirror (if equipped) by driving slowly near another vehicle to confirm function.
    • Puddle light under mirror (if equipped) by unlocking the truck in low light.
  • 🔹Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock once to help any steering-related sensors settle.
  • 🔹Check from outside that the mirror sits flush to the door with no gaps and that the gasket is evenly compressed.
  • 🔹Drive at low speed and listen for any new wind noise or rattles near the mirror area; if present, gently press the sail panel and retighten clips or add thin foam tape behind it.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 per side (parts only, depending on options like heat/BSM/turn signal)

You Save: $130-$300 per side by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours per side.


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