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2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Limited - V6 3.6L
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How to replace Driver Side Mirror 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to replace Driver Side Mirror 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Step-by-Step Guide)

Door panel removal, wiring disconnects, required tools/parts, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque specs

How to Replace Side View Mirrors on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Step-by-Step Guide)

Door panel removal, wiring disconnects, required tools/parts, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque specs

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Grand Cherokee - Side View Mirror Replacement

You’ll remove the inner door trim, unplug the mirror wiring, then unbolt the mirror from the door and install the new one. The tricky part is working carefully with the door panel clips and any extra mirror features like heat, turn signal, or blind-spot monitoring.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and remove the key/fob from the vehicle.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if your mirror has blind-spot monitoring or puddle/turn lamps to reduce the chance of electrical faults.
  • ⚠️ Support the mirror with your hand when removing the last nut so it doesn’t fall and damage the paint.
  • ⚠️ Use plastic trim tools to avoid scratching the door panel.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Plastic trim removal tool set
  • Small flat blade screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Torx T30 screwdriver
  • 7mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 6" extension (1/4" drive)
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound or small Nm range)
  • Painter’s tape
  • Magnetic pickup tool

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Side view mirror assembly (correct side, painted or primed) - Qty: 1
  • Door trim panel retainer clips - Qty: 5-10
  • Mirror mounting nuts - Qty: 3
  • Butyl adhesive strip (vapor barrier reseal) - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and lower the window on the side you’re working on.
  • Apply painter’s tape around the mirror base on the outside to protect paint.
  • If equipped with blind-spot monitoring or extra lighting in the mirror, disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Have a clean towel ready to rest the door panel on once it’s loose.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the trim at the mirror sail panel

  • From inside the door, use a plastic trim removal tool set to pry off the small triangular trim cover at the front top of the door (this is the “sail panel”).
  • If it feels stuck, use a small flat blade screwdriver very gently at a seam. Go slow to avoid breaking clips.

Step 2: Remove door handle/armrest fasteners

  • Use a plastic trim removal tool set to pop out the small covers in the door pull/armrest area.
  • Remove screws using a 7mm socket and/or Torx T20 screwdriver (your door may use one or the other depending on build).
  • Remove any additional screw behind/near the interior handle bezel using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or Torx T20 screwdriver if equipped.

Step 3: Release and lift off the door panel

  • Starting at the bottom edge, slide a plastic trim removal tool set between the door panel and the metal door and pop the clips loose one-by-one.
  • Once the clips are free, lift the entire panel straight upward to unhook it from the window channel.
  • Don’t pull it away fast—there are wires attached.

Step 4: Disconnect door panel wiring

  • Unplug the window/lock switch connector(s) by pressing the tab and pulling straight out by hand.
  • If there’s a cable for the interior handle (a “Bowden cable,” which is a cable with a clip-on end), unclip it carefully using a small flat blade screwdriver.
  • Set the door panel on a towel.

Step 5: Peel back the vapor barrier (if needed)

  • If the mirror nuts are behind the plastic moisture sheet, peel it back only as much as necessary.
  • Use your hands and go slowly so the adhesive stays on the sheet. If it won’t stick later, use butyl adhesive strip during reassembly.

Step 6: Unplug the mirror electrical connector

  • Find the mirror connector near the top/front of the door and unplug it by pressing the lock tab.
  • If your mirror has extra features (heat/turn signal/puddle lamp/blind-spot), there may be more than one connector—unplug each one.

Step 7: Remove the mirror mounting nuts

  • Hold the mirror from the outside with one hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" extension (1/4" drive) to remove the 3 mirror mounting nuts.
  • Use a magnetic pickup tool to catch nuts so they don’t drop inside the door.

Step 8: Remove the mirror from the door

  • Feed the mirror wiring through the door opening and lift the mirror off.
  • Clean the mounting surface on the door. Remove any old foam/gasket residue by hand.

Step 9: Install the new mirror

  • Guide the wiring through the opening and seat the mirror flat against the door.
  • Install the 3 nuts by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
  • Tighten with a 10mm socket and then finish with a torque wrench: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect wiring and reassemble the door

  • Plug in the mirror connector(s) until they click.
  • Re-stick the vapor barrier. If it won’t seal, apply butyl adhesive strip and press firmly all around.
  • Reconnect the door panel wiring and the interior handle cable using your hands and a small flat blade screwdriver as needed.
  • Hang the door panel on the top lip first, then press the clips in around the edges with your hands.
  • Reinstall screws using a 7mm socket, Torx T20 screwdriver, and Torx T30 screwdriver (only the ones your door originally had).
  • Snap the sail panel back on using firm hand pressure.

âś… After Repair

  • If you disconnected the battery, reconnect it using a 10mm socket.
  • Test mirror movement using the mirror switch (left/right, up/down).
  • Test mirror heat (if equipped), turn signal/puddle lamp (if equipped), and blind-spot indicator (if equipped).
  • Close the door and verify there are no rattles; press around the panel to fully seat clips.
  • Remove the painter’s tape and check the mirror sits flush with no gaps.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$750 (parts + labor, varies a lot by mirror options/paint)

DIY Cost: $120-$500 (parts only, varies by options)

You Save: $130-$250+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.


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