🔧 Camry - Shock Absorber Replacement

You can replace the shock absorbers on your Camry at home with basic tools and patience. This will restore ride comfort and control if the car feels bouncy, noisy over bumps, or unstable when braking or turning.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours for all four

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ You will be working around suspension springs. Front units are struts (shock + spring together) and must be handled carefully.
• ⚠️ Use a good-quality spring compressor if you plan to reuse your original springs; compressed springs can be dangerous.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and chock (block) the wheels that stay on the ground.
• ⚠️ Do not place any body parts between the tire and fender while the car is supported only by a jack.
• Battery disconnection is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 4)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench 21mm
• 🛠️ Socket set metric (10mm–22mm)
• 🛠️ Combination wrench set metric (10mm–22mm)
• 🛠️ Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (10–200 Nm range)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive (5–80 Nm range)
• 🛠️ Spring compressor (strut spring compressor) (specialty)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver medium
• 🛠️ Trim removal tool plastic
• 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
• 🛠️ Rubber mallet
• 🛠️ Pry bar 12-inch
• 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray
• 🛠️ Wire brush small
• 🛠️ Paint marker or white correction pen
• 🛠️ Measuring tape or ruler
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
• 🛠️ Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Front complete strut assemblies (left and right) - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Rear shock absorbers (left and right) - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Front upper strut mounts with bearings - Qty: 2 (if not included in assemblies)
• 🔩 Front strut mount nuts and bolts kit - Qty: 1 set
• 🔩 Rear shock upper and lower mounting bolts/nuts kit - Qty: 1 set
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 tube
• 🔩 Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Camry on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen (but do not remove) all four wheel lug nuts with the 21mm lug wrench while the car is still on the ground.
• Decide if you are replacing front, rear, or all four. The steps below cover all four; you can do just front or just rear if you prefer.
• Plan to get a four-wheel alignment after replacing front struts; this keeps tire wear and handling correct.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Car

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Camry at the front central jacking point (under the front subframe crossmember).
• Place jack stands under the front pinch welds on both sides, then gently lower the car onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Repeat for the rear: jack up at the rear central jacking point on the rear subframe and place jack stands under the rear pinch welds.
• Double-check stability by gently pushing the car; it should not rock or move.
• Remove all four wheels using the 21mm lug wrench.
• Keep lug nuts together by corner to stay organized.

Step 2: Identify Front Strut Components

• Locate the front strut on one front corner: it is the large vertical assembly connecting the wheel hub to the body.
• Note the brake hose bracket and ABS sensor wire bracket attached to the strut body.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and the nuts at the top of the strut (inside engine bay).

Step 3: Disconnect Front Strut Brackets

• Use a 12mm or 14mm socket (depending on your part) to remove the small bolts holding the brake hose and ABS wire brackets to the strut.
• Carefully move the hose and wire aside so they are free from the strut but still attached to the car.
• Do not stretch or kink the rubber brake hose.

Step 4: Loosen Front Strut Top Nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three small nuts on top of the strut tower for that side.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench (or ratchet) to loosen all three nuts but do not fully remove them yet.
• Leave a few threads engaged so the strut does not fall when you remove the lower bolts.

Step 5: Remove Front Strut Lower Bolts

• At the wheel area, locate the two large bolts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle.
• Use a 19mm or 21mm socket and breaker bar on the nut side, and a matching wrench on the bolt head.
• Break both nuts loose and remove them, then push out the bolts. You may need to tap gently with a rubber mallet.
• Support the steering knuckle so it does not strain the axle or brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Front Strut Assembly

• Back in the engine bay, remove the three top nuts fully with a 14mm socket while holding the strut from below with one hand.
• Carefully lower the strut out through the wheel well opening.
• Repeat Steps 2–6 on the other front side.

Step 7: Swap Front Strut (Using Complete Assemblies)

• If you bought complete front strut assemblies (spring, mount, and strut pre-assembled), you do not need a spring compressor.
• Compare old and new assemblies to ensure same height and mounting points.
• If alignment bolts have camber marks, use a paint marker to mark the position on the old strut; transfer the marks to the new strut to keep alignment close.

Step 8: Transfer Springs (If Not Using Complete Assemblies)

• This step uses a spring compressor, which compresses the coil spring so you can safely remove the top mount.
• Attach the spring compressor evenly on opposite sides of the spring and tighten each side alternately using a 19mm socket until the tension is off the top mount.
• Use a socket (often 17mm or 19mm) and wrench to remove the top nut from the strut shaft.
• Lift off the top mount, bearing, and spring seat, then remove the spring.
• Install the spring onto the new strut in the same orientation; make sure the spring end sits correctly in the lower perch.
• Reinstall the upper spring seat, bearing, and mount, and tighten the shaft nut to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs) with the torque wrench while the spring is still compressed.
• Slowly release the spring compressor evenly, making sure the spring stays seated.

Step 9: Install Front Struts

• Position the new front strut in the wheel well and guide the studs through the holes in the strut tower.
• Install the three top nuts finger-tight from the engine bay.
• Align the bottom of the strut with the steering knuckle and insert the two lower bolts.
• Install the nuts and snug them with a 19mm or 21mm socket and wrench, but do not torque yet.

Step 10: Torque Front Strut Bolts

• Use the 1/2-inch torque wrench and 19mm/21mm socket to torque the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
• In the engine bay, torque the three top strut mount nuts with a 14mm socket to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Reattach the brake hose and ABS brackets with a 12mm or 14mm socket and torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
• Repeat Steps 9–10 for the other side.

Step 11: Identify Rear Shock Mounts

• Move to the rear of your Camry; the rear shocks are separate from the springs.
• The lower mount is visible at the bottom of the shock attached to the rear suspension arm.
• The upper mount is inside the trunk area behind interior trim near the wheel arches.

Step 12: Access Rear Shock Upper Mounts

• Open the trunk and remove the floor covering if needed.
• Use a trim removal tool to carefully pry off the side trunk trim clips near each rear wheel arch.
• Pull the trim back enough to expose the top of the rear shock mount and its two nuts.

Step 13: Remove Rear Shock Lower Bolt

• At the wheel well, locate the lower shock bolt attaching the shock to the rear suspension arm.
• Use a 17mm or 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the bolt and remove it.
• You may need to jack the suspension arm slightly with the floor jack to relieve tension on the bolt.

Step 14: Remove Rear Shock Upper Nuts and Shock

• In the trunk, use a 14mm socket to remove the two upper mounting nuts for the rear shock.
• Support the shock from below with one hand as you remove the last nut so it does not drop suddenly.
• Lower the shock out through the wheel area.
• Repeat Steps 11–14 on the other rear side.

Step 15: Prepare New Rear Shocks

• Compare the old and new shocks to confirm same length and mounting layout.
• If your new shocks came with new upper mounts and bushings, assemble them as shown in the instructions (order of washers and bushings matters).
• Follow the diagram included with the shocks.

Step 16: Install Rear Shocks

• Position the new shock in place and insert the top studs through the holes in the body from below.
• In the trunk, install the two upper nuts finger-tight using a 14mm socket.
• At the bottom, align the lower eye with the mounting hole on the suspension arm and insert the bolt.
• Install the nut and snug it with a 17mm or 19mm socket and wrench, but do not torque yet.

Step 17: Torque Rear Shock Fasteners

• Use the 3/8-inch torque wrench and 14mm socket to torque each rear upper shock nut to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Use the 1/2-inch torque wrench and 17mm/19mm socket to torque the lower rear shock bolt to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Repeat for the other rear shock.

Step 18: Reinstall Interior Trim and Wheels

• Reposition the trunk trim over the rear shock mounts and push the clips back in by hand.
• Reinstall the trunk floor covering.
• Reinstall all four wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using the 21mm lug wrench.

Step 19: Lower the Car and Final Torque

• Use the floor jack to lift each corner slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the car to the ground.
• With the car on the ground, use the 1/2-inch torque wrench and 21mm socket to torque all wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the exposed threads if desired, avoiding the seating surface.

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✅ After Repair

• Take your Camry for a short, gentle test drive on a smooth, then slightly bumpy road. Listen for clunks, rattles, or unusual noises.
• Check that the car tracks straight and steering feels normal. Some pull or off-center steering means you need an alignment.
• After the drive, recheck all visible fasteners for tightness and look for any loose brake hoses or wires.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible, especially after front strut replacement, to avoid uneven tire wear.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,100 (parts + labor) for all four shocks/struts

DIY Cost: $250-$500 (parts only, depending on brand and if you use complete assemblies)

You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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