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2016 Volvo XC90
2016 Volvo XC90
T5 Inscription
Compatible with more variants.
2016 - 2017 Volvo XC90
T5 Momentum
2016 - 2017 Volvo XC90
T5 R-Design
2016 Volvo XC90
T6 First Edition
2016 - 2017 Volvo XC90
T6 Inscription
2016 - 2017 Volvo XC90
T6 Momentum
2016 - 2017 Volvo XC90
T6 R-Design
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  • Guides
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  • Volvo XC90
  • /
  • 2016
  • /
  • How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2017 Volvo XC90 (Trim: T6 R-Design)
Volvo XC90 Rear Shock Replacement DIY (2016-Present Volvo XC90 SPA-chassis S90, V90, S60, V60, XC60)

Volvo XC90 Rear Shock Replacement DIY (2016-Present Volvo XC90 SPA-chassis S90, V90, S60, V60, XC60)

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
18mm
18mm
Socket
or (11/16")
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How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2017 Volvo XC90 (Trim: T6 R-Design)

Step-by-step front strut and rear shock replacement with tools, safety tips, and torque guidance

How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2017 Volvo XC90 (Trim: T6 R-Design)

Step-by-step front strut and rear shock replacement with tools, safety tips, and torque guidance for 2016

Orion
Orion

🔧 Shock Absorbers - Front Strut / Rear Shock Replacement

Assumption: on your XC90, the front units are strut assemblies and the rear units are separate shock absorbers. Replace one side at a time, then repeat on the other side if needed.

The front suspension uses a strut-style assembly, while the rear uses separate shock absorbers. This job involves supporting the suspension safely, removing the mounting hardware, and transferring or replacing related hardware as needed.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Support the vehicle securely with jack stands before removing any suspension fasteners.
  • Do not disconnect any high-voltage components; this vehicle does not require HV isolation for shock service.
  • Rear suspension may be under load; use a jack to support the control arm or axle before removing shock bolts.
  • Front struts are under spring tension if you are replacing the full strut assembly; use a spring compressor if disassembling the strut.
  • Wheel alignment is recommended after front strut replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 17mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Breaker bar
  • Torque wrench
  • Penetrating oil
  • Trim removal tool
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assembly - Qty: 2, replace in pairs if worn
  • Rear shock absorber - Qty: 2, replace in pairs if worn
  • Upper strut mount / bearing - Qty: 2, recommended with front struts
  • Front strut mount hardware - Qty: 1 set
  • Rear shock upper mount hardware - Qty: 1 set
  • Rear shock lower mounting bolt - Qty: 1 set
  • Bump stop / dust boot kit - Qty: 2, if damaged

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Loosen the wheel lug bolts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
  • Raise and support the vehicle with jack stands at the factory lift points.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the shock and strut fasteners before removal.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the vehicle and remove the wheel

  • Use a floor jack and jack stands to raise the corner you are servicing.
  • Remove the wheel with a 19mm socket.
  • Work one side at a time.

Step 2: Disconnect the shock or strut connections

  • Rear: Use an 18mm socket or 21mm socket to remove the lower shock bolt.
  • Front: Use a 17mm socket, 18mm socket, and 21mm socket to remove the strut mounting fasteners and any linked brackets.
  • If a brake hose or sensor bracket is attached to the strut, remove it carefully with a trim removal tool or the correct socket.

Step 3: Support the suspension

  • Use the floor jack under the control arm or rear suspension arm to control spring tension.
  • Raise or lower slightly until the bolt slides out without binding.
  • Do not let the suspension hang freely.

Step 4: Remove the shock or strut assembly

  • Remove the upper and lower mounting hardware with the correct socket and breaker bar if needed.
  • Pull the shock or strut assembly out of the wheel well.
  • Front only: If replacing the internal strut, compress the spring with a spring compressor (specialty) before removing the top nut.

Step 5: Install the new assembly

  • Position the new shock or strut in place by hand.
  • Install the upper and lower fasteners finger-tight first.
  • Tighten the fasteners with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to factory specification for the exact fastener location.

Step 6: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall the wheel with the 19mm socket.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack.
  • Tighten the wheel lug bolts with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to factory wheel specification.

Step 7: Repeat on the opposite side if needed

  • Replace shocks or struts in pairs for balanced handling.
  • Repeat the same steps on the other side if both are being replaced.

✅ After Repair

  • Test drive slowly and listen for clunks or knocking.
  • Check for loose fasteners after the first drive.
  • Schedule a wheel alignment if front struts were replaced.
  • Inspect for any shifted brake hoses or sensor wires.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.


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