🔧 Altima - Shock Absorber Replacement

You can replace the shock absorbers on your Altima at home with basic tools and patience. The rear shocks are simpler; the front “shocks” are part of the front strut assemblies and are more involved. I’ll walk you through it in clear steps.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3–5 hours for all four (2–3 hours front, 1–2 hours rear)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands, never only a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground so the car cannot roll or shift.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; dirt and rust can fall while you’re under the car.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the large center nut on the front strut top while the strut is still installed; only remove it on the bench with a spring compressor.
• ⚠️ A spring compressor is required if you are disassembling front struts; the coil spring is under high tension and can cause serious injury if mishandled.
• ⚠️ Chock the wheels that remain on the ground so the Altima cannot move.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton pair minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• Socket set (10mm–21mm metric)
• Combination wrench set (10mm–21mm metric)
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive
• Hex key set (metric)
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Pry bar 12"
• Needle-nose pliers
• Spring compressor (strut spring compressor) (specialty)
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil spray
• Wire brush small
• Paint marker or white-out pen
• Shop rags
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (left and right) - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers (left and right) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts with bearings - Qty: 2
• Front strut dust boots and bump stops - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mounts - Qty: 2
• New front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• New rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• Rust penetrant spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Altima on level ground, engage the parking brake, and place the transmission in Park.
• Loosen (do not remove) the wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a lug wrench or 21mm socket before lifting the car.
• Place wheel chocks behind and in front of the wheels that stay on the ground.
• For easier work, spray all accessible suspension nuts and bolts with penetrating oil and let it sit for 10–15 minutes.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Altima

• Use the floor jack at the front center jacking point under the subframe to lift the front of the car.
• Place jack stands under the factory pinch weld points on both sides and slowly lower the car onto the stands.
• Repeat at the rear if you’re doing all four corners: lift at the rear jacking point and support with jack stands.
• Remove the wheels with a 21mm socket.
• Always shake car lightly to confirm stability

Step 2: Rear Shock Overview (Simpler, Do These First)

• The rear shocks are separate from the springs; you do not need a spring compressor for the rear.
• You have one bolt at the bottom of each shock (to the suspension arm) and one or two bolts/nuts at the top (to the body).
• Do one side at a time to learn pattern

Step 3: Remove Rear Lower Shock Bolt

• Support the rear suspension arm under the shock with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar on the lower shock bolt; hold the nut with a 19mm wrench if needed.
• Remove the bolt and nut fully, then slowly lower the floor jack slightly so the arm relaxes.
• Torque on reassembly: 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove Rear Upper Shock Mount Fasteners

• From inside the trunk, pull back the side trim near the wheel house to expose the top of the rear shock mount.
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (depending on your shock mount style) to remove the upper mounting nuts or bolts.
• Support the shock with one hand from below while removing the last fastener so it doesn’t drop.
• Lower the rear shock out of the wheel well.
• Torque on reassembly (upper mount nuts): 43 Nm (32 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Install New Rear Shock and Mount

• If you’re also replacing the rear upper mount, attach it to the new shock per the manufacturer’s instructions using a socket set and torque wrench.
• Insert the new shock from below into position and loosely install the top nuts/bolts by hand with a 10mm or 12mm socket.
• Raise the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack until the lower shock eye lines up with the bracket.
• Install the lower bolt and nut by hand with a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench, but do not fully tighten yet.
• Hand-thread bolts fully to avoid cross-threading

Step 6: Torque Rear Shock Bolts at Ride Height

• Raise the suspension arm with the floor jack until the car just begins to lift from the jack stand; this simulates normal ride height.
• Tighten the upper shock mount nuts to 43 Nm (32 ft-lbs) with a torque wrench and correct socket.
• Tighten the lower shock bolt to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs) with a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• Repeat Steps 3–6 on the other rear shock.

Step 7: Front Strut Overview

• The front “shock” is inside a strut assembly made up of the shock (strut), coil spring, and top mount.
• If you buy complete loaded strut assemblies (spring, mount, and strut already assembled), you do not need a spring compressor and can skip disassembly steps.
• Loaded struts are best choice for beginners

Step 8: Mark Front Strut Alignment

• Turn the steering so the wheel you’re working on is straight and accessible.
• On the lower strut-to-knuckle connection, use a wire brush to clean rust and then apply penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to draw alignment marks where the strut meets the steering knuckle; this helps preserve alignment.
• You still need an alignment after this job

Step 9: Disconnect Front ABS Wire and Brake Hose Brackets

• Locate the ABS sensor wire and brake hose brackets attached to the strut.
• Remove any bolts using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• If there are plastic clips, gently pry them open with a flathead screwdriver and free the wire/hose from the strut.
• Do not stretch or hang by the hose or wire

Step 10: Remove Front Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Support the lower control arm/knuckle with the floor jack just enough to prevent it from dropping.
• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar on the strut-to-knuckle bolts; hold the nuts with a 21mm wrench if needed.
• Tap the bolts out with a rubber mallet if they are stuck.
• Once both bolts are removed, the knuckle will be free from the strut, but still supported by the jack and other suspension arms.
• Torque on reassembly: 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Remove Front Strut Upper Mount Nuts

• Open the hood and locate the top of the strut tower on the side you’re working on.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the three small nuts around the strut mount. Do not remove the large center nut now.
• Support the strut from below with one hand while removing the last nut so it doesn’t fall.
• Lower the complete strut assembly out through the wheel well.
• Torque on reassembly (upper mount nuts): 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Swap to New Loaded Strut (Recommended Method)

• If you have loaded struts, simply position the new unit in the wheel well.
• Insert the top studs through the holes in the strut tower and loosely install the three 14mm nuts by hand with a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle, using your earlier paint marks as a guide.
• Insert the new strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand with a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench on the nuts, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 13: If Reusing Springs (Spring Compressor Method)

• Clamp the old strut assembly securely in a bench vise or on the ground with your foot while keeping clear of the spring path.
• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil spring, following the tool’s instructions.
• Using the tool’s wrench or appropriate socket, compress the spring evenly until it is loose around the top and bottom seats.
• Use a socket and possibly a hex key in the center rod (depending on design) to remove the center nut.
• Lift off the upper mount and carefully remove the compressed spring, then slowly release tension on the compressor away from your body.
• Transfer the spring, bump stop, and boot to the new strut and reassemble in reverse, then tighten the center nut to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs) with a torque wrench.
• If unsure, choose loaded struts instead

Step 14: Final Tightening of Front Strut

• Tighten the upper strut mount nuts to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) with a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• At the lower connection, align to your paint marks, then tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs) with a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Reattach the ABS wire and brake hose brackets with the original bolts using a 10mm or 12mm socket and tighten snugly (about 9–12 Nm / 7–9 ft-lbs).
• Repeat Steps 8–14 on the other front side.

Step 15: Reinstall Wheels and Lower the Car

• Reinstall the wheels with a 21mm socket and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern while the car is still on jack stands.
• Raise the car slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and slowly lower the car to the ground.
• Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 21mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary; listen for clunks or binding from the front struts.
• Take a short, gentle test drive on a smooth road; check for noises over bumps and during turns.
• After the drive, re-check all four corners visually to make sure no bolts or nuts have loosened, and re-torque the wheel lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment; changing struts and shocks will affect alignment and tire wear.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900–$1,300 (parts + labor) for all four corners

DIY Cost: $350–$650 (parts only, using loaded struts and quality shocks)

You Save: $550–$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours.

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