1500 Classic - Rear Window Regulator Replacement 🔧

On your 1500 Classic SLT Extended Cab, the rear window regulator is the mechanism inside the rear door that moves the glass up and down. I’ll walk you through replacing one rear door regulator (left or right) — the steps are almost identical.

Quick questions before you start:

• 🔹 Is your rear window manual crank or power (switch)?
• 🔹 Is the problem on the left rear or right rear door?

If you’re not sure, you can still read ahead — I’ll note both manual and power differences.

Safety & Prep ⚠️

• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery:
  • Use a 10 mm wrench to remove the negative (-) battery cable.
  • This prevents accidental airbag or window motor movement.
• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface, parking brake on, ignition off.
• ⚠️ Rear doors have side airbags in the trim. Do not poke or drill anywhere except where I specify.

Parts You’ll Need 📦

• 🔧 Rear door window regulator assembly (left or right, for your 2020 1500 Classic SLT).
  • For power windows: usually comes with the motor already attached (best option).
  • For manual windows: regulator only, no motor.
• 🔧 Optional: new door panel clips (plastic push clips often break when removed).
• 🔧 Optional: butyl tape or door vapor barrier adhesive if the plastic moisture barrier tears.

Tools Required 🧰

• 🔧 Socket set:
  • 8 mm, 10 mm sockets (most common on this truck).
  • Ratchet and short extension.
• 🔧 Torx drivers (T20 and T25 usually cover the door screws).
• 🔧 Trim removal tool (plastic pry tool; used to pop off panels without scratching).
• 🔧 Small flathead screwdriver (for covers and clips).
• 🔧 Phillips screwdriver.
• 🔧 Painter’s tape (low-tack tape to hold the glass up).
• 🔧 Needle-nose pliers (for clips and connectors).
• 🔧 Torque wrench that can read 5–15 N·m (50–130 in-lb).
• 🔧 Clean rag and glass cleaner.

Door Panel Removal 🚪

Steps are for one rear door; repeat on the other side if needed.

• 🔧 1. Remove trim covers and screws
  • Open the rear door fully.
  • Behind the interior door handle, pry off the small plastic cover with a flathead or trim tool. Remove the screw (usually Torx T20 or Phillips).
  • In the armrest pull pocket, there is another screw under a small cover. Pry the cover up and remove that screw.
  • Check the lower edge of the door panel for any visible screws and remove them (often 1–2 Phillips or Torx).
• 🔧 2. Remove window switch (power windows only)
  • Use the trim tool to gently pry up the window switch bezel from the armrest.
  • Unplug the electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight out.
  • Set the switch aside.
• 🔧 3. Release the door panel clips
  • Starting at the bottom corner of the panel, slide the trim tool between the panel and metal door.
  • Pry gently to pop the first clip. You’ll hear a “pop” as it releases.
  • Work your way around the sides and bottom, releasing all clips.
  • Once clips are free, lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the top edge near the window.
• 🔧 4. Disconnect handle cable and any wiring
  • On the back of the panel, you’ll see a cable going to the interior door handle:
    • Rotate the plastic retainer out of its bracket.
    • Unhook the cable end from the handle lever.
  • Unplug any remaining connectors (courtesy light, speaker if attached to panel).
  • Set the door panel somewhere safe, cloth side up.

Accessing the Regulator 🪟

• 🔧 5. Remove the moisture barrier
  • You’ll see a plastic sheet stuck to the door with sticky butyl.
  • Carefully peel it back starting at a corner. Do not tear it if possible.
  • Peel it back enough to access the large openings in the door where the regulator sits.
• 🔧 6. Position and secure the glass
  • If the window is stuck up: gently push it down by hand until you can see the glass-to-regulator clamps through the access holes.
  • If the window is stuck down: lift it by hand to about halfway so the clamps are visible.
  • Use painter’s tape on the outside of the glass, taping it to the door frame in 2–3 places to hold it up.
  • Do not rely on your hand alone to hold the glass.

Removing the Old Regulator ⚙️

• 🔧 7. Loosen glass clamp bolts
  • Through the access holes, locate the two clamp bolts that hold the glass to the regulator (usually 10 mm).
  • Loosen them a few turns until the glass is free from the regulator. You do not need to remove the bolts completely.
  • Carefully slide the glass fully up into the frame by hand.
  • Add more painter’s tape at the top to secure the glass firmly.
• 🔧 8. Disconnect the motor (power windows)
  • Locate the window motor on the regulator assembly.
  • Unplug the electrical connector by pressing the locking tab and pulling straight out.
• 🔧 9. Remove regulator and motor mounting bolts
  • Find all the bolts holding the regulator tracks and motor to the door (usually 4–6 bolts, 10 mm).
  • Remove them one by one while supporting the regulator with your other hand.
  • Once all bolts are out, angle the regulator assembly and slide it out through the large opening in the door.

Installing the New Regulator 🆕

• 🔧 10. Transfer motor (if needed)
  • If your new regulator does not include a motor:
    • Remove the 3 motor bolts from the old regulator (usually Torx or 10 mm).
    • Install the motor onto the new regulator in the same orientation.
    • Tighten motor bolts to about 8–10 N·m (70–90 in-lb).
• 🔧 11. Install the new regulator into the door
  • Feed the new regulator assembly into the door through the large opening.
  • Align the mounting holes with the holes in the door.
  • Install all regulator and motor bolts finger-tight first.
  • Then torque them evenly to about 8–10 N·m (70–90 in-lb).
• 🔧 12. Reattach the glass to the regulator
  • Carefully remove some of the painter’s tape so the glass can move slightly, but keep a piece at the top so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
  • Lower the glass by hand until it sits in the regulator clamps.
  • Make sure the glass is centered in the window channels (front and rear guides).
  • Tighten the two glass clamp bolts to about 8 N·m (70 in-lb) — snug but not over-tight, or you can crack the glass.
  • Remove the remaining tape.
• 🔧 13. Reconnect the motor (power windows)
  • Plug the electrical connector back into the window motor until it clicks.

Testing the Window ✅

• 🔧 14. Temporary reconnect and test
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable (10 mm) and snug it down.
  • For power windows:
    • Plug the window switch back into its connector (you can leave it hanging for now).
    • Turn the ignition to RUN (engine off is fine).
    • Run the window up and down several times.
    • Listen for grinding or binding; the glass should move smoothly and sit fully closed and fully open.
  • For manual windows:
    • Temporarily install the crank handle and roll the window up and down.
  • If everything is smooth, turn ignition off and disconnect the battery negative again before reassembling.

Reassembling the Door Panel 🧩

• 🔧 15. Reinstall moisture barrier
  • Press the plastic sheet back into place along the original butyl adhesive.
  • If it doesn’t stick well, use fresh butyl tape around the edges.
  • Make sure all holes for clips and screws are clear.
• 🔧 16. Refit the door panel
  • Reconnect any wiring to the panel (courtesy light, speaker if applicable).
  • Reattach the interior handle cable:
    • Hook the cable end into the handle lever.
    • Snap the plastic retainer back into its bracket.
  • Hang the top of the door panel on the window ledge, then push it down to seat it.
  • Align the clips with their holes and press around the edges to snap them in.
• 🔧 17. Reinstall screws and switch
  • Reinstall all door panel screws (handle area, armrest, bottom). Snug them; don’t overtighten.
  • Snap the plastic covers back over the screws.
  • For power windows:
    • Snap the window switch bezel back into the armrest.
• 🔧 18. Final battery reconnect and check
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable for good.
  • Cycle the window again to confirm proper operation.
  • Check door lock and handle function from inside and outside.

Tips & Tricks 💡

• 🔧 Work one side at a time: If you’re unsure where clips and cables go, leave the other rear door intact as a reference.
• 🔧 Use new clips if panel feels loose: If the door panel doesn’t feel solid when you tap it, some clips may be broken — replace them.
• 🔧 Don’t slam the door right after the repair; gently close it a few times and listen for rattles.

HowToo makes it easy: below this answer you’ll see recommended regulators, clips, and tools that fit your 1500 Classic. You can add them to your cart directly from the parts section, with fast shipping and all the specialty tools you might need. 🚚

If you reply with whether your rear windows are manual or power and which side you’re doing first, I can tailor torque specs and connector locations even more precisely for that door.