🔧 Durango - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the lift mechanism that raises and lowers the rear door glass. If the window falls into the door, moves crooked, clicks, or the motor runs but the glass doesn’t move, the regulator (and sometimes the motor) is usually the fix.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.0 hours per rear door

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the regulator arms and cables; they can pinch hard.
• ⚠️ Support the glass at all times once it’s unclamped, or it can drop and shatter.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door wiring to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Don’t tear the vapor barrier (plastic sheet). It prevents water leaks into the cabin.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Trim removal tool set
• Panel clip pliers
• Pick tool
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Torx T20 screwdriver
• Torx T30 bit
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• 3" extension (3/8" drive)
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Painter’s tape (1"-2" wide)
• Suction cup glass handle (specialty)
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
• Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if motor is faulty or not included)
• Door trim panel clips - Qty: 6-10 (replace any broken clips)
• Vapor barrier butyl tape - Qty: 1 (if the original adhesive won’t reseal)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and open the rear door fully for working room.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• If the window still moves, run it to about halfway down so you can access the glass clamp bolts through the door openings.
• Lay down a towel on the door sill to protect paint and interior trim.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a trim removal tool to carefully pry up the window switch bezel and unplug the switch connector.
• Use a pick tool to pop off any small screw covers in the pull handle/trim areas (if equipped).
• Remove the panel screws using a 7mm socket and/or Torx T20 screwdriver (locations are typically in the pull handle and near the lower edge).
• Use panel clip pliers or a trim removal tool to pop the plastic clips around the perimeter.
• Lift the door panel straight upward to unhook it from the window ledge, then unplug any remaining connectors.
• Tip: Pull near each clip, not in the middle.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

• Peel the vapor barrier back slowly by hand. If the butyl adhesive strings, use a trim removal tool to help separate it.
• Do not fully remove it unless necessary—just peel it back enough to access the regulator.

Step 3: Secure the glass so it can’t drop

• If the glass is up, run two long strips of painter’s tape from the outside of the glass over the door frame to the inside, making a “sling.”
• If the glass is loose or dropped, use a suction cup glass handle (specialty) to lift and hold it while you tape it in place.

Step 4: Unbolt the glass from the regulator

• Reconnect the window switch temporarily (if needed) and reconnect the battery only long enough to position the clamp bolts in the access holes, then disconnect battery again with a 10mm socket.
• Through the access openings, use a 10mm socket to loosen/remove the glass clamp bolts.
• Carefully push the glass fully up by hand and add more painter’s tape to hold it securely.
• Torque on reassembly: Torque to 89 in-lbs (10 Nm)

Step 5: Disconnect and remove the regulator assembly

• Unplug the regulator motor connector by pressing the lock tab (use a pick tool if needed).
• Remove the regulator/motor fasteners using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove any guide/track bolts (often 10mm), then maneuver the regulator out through the large door opening.
• Torque on reassembly: Torque to 71 in-lbs (8 Nm)

Step 6: Transfer the motor (if your new regulator doesn’t include it)

• Hold the regulator steady on a bench or flat surface.
• Remove the motor screws using a Torx T30 bit.
• Install the motor onto the new regulator and tighten the screws evenly.
• Torque: Torque to 53 in-lbs (6 Nm)
• Tip: Don’t rotate the motor gear by hand.

Step 7: Install the new regulator

• Feed the new regulator into the door cavity the same way the old one came out.
• Start all regulator bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Tighten fasteners using a 10mm socket and finish with a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Torque: Torque to 71 in-lbs (8 Nm)

Step 8: Reattach the glass to the regulator

• Remove some of the painter’s tape so the glass can lower slightly into the clamps.
• Lower the glass by hand until it sits fully in the regulator clamps.
• Install/tighten the clamp bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 89 in-lbs (10 Nm)

Step 9: Function test before reassembly

• Reconnect the motor connector.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Cycle the window up/down using the switch and watch for smooth travel and no cable “popping.”
• Disconnect the negative battery cable again with a 10mm socket before putting trim back on.

Step 10: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

• Press the vapor barrier back into the butyl adhesive. If it won’t stick, apply vapor barrier butyl tape and reseal the edges.
• Reconnect all door panel connectors.
• Hang the door panel on the top lip first, then press the clips in around the perimeter.
• Reinstall screws using a 7mm socket and/or Torx T20 screwdriver.
• Torque (small interior screws): Torque to 18 in-lbs (2 Nm)

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Verify the rear window runs smoothly, seals at the top, and doesn’t tilt forward/back.
• Check the door for water leaks later by running a light hose over the outside of the window and door handle area.
• If the window seems misaligned, loosen the regulator bolts slightly, shift the regulator a tiny amount, then retorque.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours per door.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.