🔧 Durango - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the mechanism that moves the glass up and down. Replacement usually involves removing the rear door panel, separating the glass from the regulator, and swapping the regulator (and sometimes the motor) inside the door.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per door)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working in the door (side airbag wiring is in this area).
• ⚠️ Support the window glass with tape before unbolting it so it can’t drop and shatter.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the regulator arms/cables while testing.
• ⚠️ Don’t turn the ignition on with airbag connectors unplugged (can set an airbag warning light).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Plastic trim removal tool set
• Pick tool
• Phillips screwdriver
• Torx T20 driver
• Torx T30 driver
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet
• 6-inch extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Painters tape (2-inch)
• Magnetic parts tray
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator - Qty: 1
• Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (if not included)
• Door panel retainer clips - Qty: 6-12 (as needed)
• Butyl tape (vapor barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1 (as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and open the rear door fully.
• Lower the window about halfway if it still moves (this usually lines up the glass-to-regulator fasteners).
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Have painters tape (2-inch) ready to hold the glass up.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a plastic trim removal tool set to gently pry off the trim covers near the door handle and armrest (work slowly to avoid cracking plastic).
• Remove the exposed screws using a 7mm socket and a Torx T20 driver (locations vary by door).
• Starting at the bottom edge, pop the panel clips free using a plastic trim removal tool set.
• Lift the panel straight up and off the window ledge.
• Disconnect electrical connectors using a pick tool to release the lock tabs. Don’t pull on wires.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

• Peel the vapor barrier back carefully using your hands and a plastic trim removal tool set.
• If the butyl adhesive strings, cut it cleanly and plan to reseal later with butyl tape.

Step 3: Support and secure the window glass

• Use a flashlight to look through the door openings and locate the glass-to-regulator attachment points.
• Apply multiple strips of painters tape (2-inch) from the outside of the glass over the top of the door frame to hold the glass up.
• If the glass is loose, add more tape—this is what prevents breakage.

Step 4: Separate the glass from the regulator

• Remove the glass clamp/retainer fasteners with a 10mm socket (accessed through the door holes).
• Once the fasteners are out/loose, slide the glass slightly by hand to ensure it’s free from the regulator.
• Re-tape the glass securely in the full-up position.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 89 in-lbs (10 N·m).

Step 5: Remove the regulator and motor

• Disconnect the window motor connector using a pick tool.
• Remove regulator/motor mounting bolts using a 10mm socket, ratchet, and 6-inch extension.
• Carefully maneuver the regulator out through the large service opening in the door.
• When reinstalling later: Torque regulator/motor bolts to 89 in-lbs (10 N·m).

Step 6: Transfer the motor (only if your new regulator doesn’t include it)

• Place the regulator on a stable surface.
• Remove the motor screws using a Torx T30 driver.
• Install the motor onto the new regulator and tighten evenly.
• When reinstalling: Torque to 80 in-lbs (9 N·m).
• Keep hands clear of cable spool.

Step 7: Install the new regulator

• Slide the new regulator into the door and loosely start all mounting bolts by hand using a 10mm socket.
• Align the regulator to its mounting holes, then tighten bolts with a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 89 in-lbs (10 N·m).
• Reconnect the motor electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 8: Reattach the glass to the regulator

• Carefully lower the glass into position (remove some tape as needed, but keep control of the glass).
• Install/tighten the glass clamp/retainer fasteners using a 10mm socket.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 89 in-lbs (10 N·m).

Step 9: Function test before reassembly

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Plug in the window switch connector and cycle the window up/down while watching the regulator movement with a flashlight.
• Listen for clicking/grinding and verify the glass stays aligned in the run channels (tracks).
• Disconnect the battery again with a 10mm socket before putting the panel back on.

Step 10: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

• Reseal the vapor barrier using butyl tape (press firmly all the way around).
• Reconnect all electrical connectors.
• Hang the door panel on the top window ledge, then press clips in around the perimeter using your hands.
• Reinstall screws using a 7mm socket and Torx T20 driver.

Step 11: Final battery connection and window check

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Cycle the window fully down and fully up several times to confirm smooth operation.

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✅ After Repair

• Verify the window seals properly against the weatherstrip (no wind gap).
• Check that the door locks, speaker, and courtesy light work (connectors sometimes get missed).
• If an airbag warning light appears, it typically requires a scan tool to clear after fixing the cause.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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