Assumption: Your SRX uses a cable-style rear regulator assembly that may be bolted in or factory-riveted. Steps below cover both.

🔧 SRX - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the mechanism that lifts and lowers the rear door glass. Replacing it involves removing the rear door trim panel, separating the glass from the regulator, swapping the regulator (and motor if included), then testing before reassembly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours per door

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Keep hands clear of the window tracks and regulator cables; pinch hazard is serious.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door wiring connectors.
• If you must power the window for positioning, reconnect the battery only temporarily, then disconnect again before unbolting the glass.
• Support the glass with tape or a helper before loosening glass clamps/bolts.
• Wear safety glasses when drilling rivets or working under the door panel.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Plastic trim removal tool set
• Panel clip pliers
• Pick tool
• Ratchet
• 6-inch socket extension
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Torx T15 screwdriver
• Torx T20 screwdriver
• Painter’s tape (2-inch)
• Magnetic parts tray
• Flashlight
• Cordless drill
• 1/4-inch drill bit
• Center punch
• Pop rivet gun (specialty)
• 1/4-inch aluminum pop rivets

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
• Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included with regulator)
• Rear door trim panel clips - Qty: 1 set (recommended)
• Water shield butyl tape - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and switch the ignition OFF.
• Lower the rear window to about halfway if it still moves (this gives access to the glass-to-regulator fasteners).
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and wait 2 minutes.
• Lay painter’s tape along the door edge/paint near the trim panel to prevent scratches.
• Know your fastener style: if you see round “mushroom” heads holding the regulator, those are rivets and you’ll use the drill.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a plastic trim removal tool set to pop off the small trim covers near the door handle/armrest (work slowly so you don’t crack them).
• Remove the exposed screws using a 7mm socket and/or Torx T15 screwdriver (different screws may be used in different spots).
• Use a plastic trim removal tool set to release the panel clips around the outer edge of the door panel.
• Lift the door panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge.
• Unplug electrical connectors using a pick tool to release locking tabs (be gentle so you don’t break the locks).

Step 2: Remove the water shield (vapor barrier)

• Peel the water shield back slowly by hand.
• If the butyl (sticky sealant) won’t release cleanly, use a plastic trim removal tool set to separate it without tearing the shield.
• Stick the shield somewhere clean so dirt doesn’t get into the adhesive.

Step 3: Support the window glass

• Reconnect the battery temporarily only if you must reposition the glass, then disconnect again using a 10mm socket.
• Use painter’s tape (2-inch) to tape the glass to the door frame (run multiple strips over the top of the door).
• Use 3–4 strips; glass is heavier than it looks.

Step 4: Separate the glass from the regulator

• Find the glass-to-regulator clamp/bolts through the access holes.
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen/remove the glass fasteners.
• Typical GM torque on reassembly: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) (verify if you have factory info).
• Carefully slide the glass upward by hand, then add more painter’s tape (2-inch) to hold it fully up.

Step 5: Remove the regulator and motor assembly

• Unplug the window motor connector.
• If bolted: remove regulator/motor bolts using a 10mm socket.
• If riveted: mark the rivet centers with a center punch, then drill the rivet heads using a cordless drill and 1/4-inch drill bit.
• A pop rivet gun is a hand tool that pulls and snaps rivets to clamp parts together.
• Remove the regulator through the largest access opening (rotate it as needed).

Step 6: Transfer the motor (only if needed)

• If your replacement regulator does not include a motor, remove the motor screws/bolts using a Torx T20 screwdriver or 10mm socket (whichever your motor uses).
• Install the motor onto the new regulator and snug fasteners evenly.

Step 7: Install the new regulator

• Position the new regulator in the door and align mounting holes.
• If bolted: install bolts finger-tight, then tighten using a 10mm socket.
• Typical GM torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) (verify if you have factory info).
• If riveted: install new rivets using a pop rivet gun (specialty) and 1/4-inch aluminum pop rivets.
• Reconnect the window motor connector.

Step 8: Reattach the glass to the regulator

• Reconnect the battery temporarily using a 10mm socket and turn ignition ON.
• Use the window switch to move the regulator attachment points into view, then ignition OFF and disconnect the battery again using a 10mm socket.
• Lower the glass carefully into the regulator clamps.
• Install/tighten glass fasteners using a 10mm socket.
• Typical GM torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) (verify if you have factory info).

Step 9: Function test before reassembly

• Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.
• Turn ignition ON and run the window fully down, then fully up, watching for binding or twisting.
• If the glass tilts, loosen the regulator mounting bolts slightly using a 10mm socket, center the regulator, then retighten.

Step 10: Reinstall water shield and door trim panel

• Press the water shield back into the butyl. Add water shield butyl tape anywhere it no longer sticks.
• Reconnect all door panel electrical connectors.
• Hook the top of the door panel onto the window ledge, then press clips in around the edge by hand.
• Reinstall screws using a 7mm socket and/or Torx T15 screwdriver.
• Typical trim screw torque: 2 Nm (18 in-lbs) (snug only; do not strip plastic).

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✅ After Repair

• Cycle the repaired rear window up/down 5 times and listen for clicking or cable popping.
• If the window has one-touch behavior and acts “confused,” relearn it: hold the switch in the UP position for 5 seconds after it fully closes, then hold DOWN for 5 seconds after it fully opens.
• Verify the door lock, speaker, and handle work before calling it done.
• Make sure the water shield is fully sealed to help prevent water leaks and electrical problems.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor) per rear door

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only) per rear door

You Save: $330-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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