How to Replace Rear Window Regulator on a 2012-2015 Honda Civic (Left or Right Rear Door) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step rear door window regulator swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Rear Window Regulator on a 2012-2015 Honda Civic (Left or Right Rear Door) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step rear door window regulator swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Civic - Rear Window Regulator Replacement
The rear window regulator is the cable-and-track assembly that moves your rear door glass up and down. When it fails, the window may drop, move crooked, make grinding noises, or stop moving completely.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per door)
Two quick questions before you start: Which rear door (left or right), and are you replacing regulator only or the regulator + motor assembly?
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Keep fingers out of the regulator tracks and cable area (pinch hazard).
- 🛑 Support the window glass with tape before unbolting it so it can’t drop.
- 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door wiring connectors.
- 🛑 Work on level ground with the parking brake set.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pick tool
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm)
- Painters tape (1"-2" wide)
- Plastic razor blade scraper
- Work light
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear window regulator (correct side) - Qty: 1
- Rear window motor - Qty: 1 (only if replacing motor too)
- Door panel push clips - Qty: 4-10 (as needed)
- Butyl tape (vapor barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🔎 Park on a flat surface and lower the rear window to about halfway if it still moves.
- 🔎 Turn ignition OFF and remove the key.
- 🔎 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable and tuck it aside.
- 🔎 Put painters tape and a work light within reach.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear door switch trim and screws
- Use a trim clip removal tool (a forked plastic tool that pops clips without breaking them) to gently lift the rear window switch bezel/trim.
- Unplug the switch connector by pressing the lock tab with a pick tool and pulling the connector straight out.
- Remove any visible door-pull/armrest screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
Step 2: Remove the rear door panel
- Use the trim clip removal tool to pop the door panel clips around the edges (work from the bottom up).
- Lift the panel straight upward to unhook it from the window ledge.
- Disconnect any remaining connectors using the pick tool as needed, then set the panel aside.
- Tip: Keep screws/clips in a cup.
Step 3: Peel back the vapor barrier
- Carefully peel the plastic moisture sheet (vapor barrier) back using a plastic razor blade scraper.
- Try not to tear it; you’ll reuse it. If the butyl is messy, plan to replace with butyl tape.
Step 4: Secure the window glass
- Manually position the glass so you can access the glass-to-regulator fasteners through the door access holes.
- Apply multiple strips of painters tape (1"-2" wide) from the outside of the glass over the top of the door frame to hold the glass up.
- If the glass is already down and the regulator is broken, carefully lift the glass up by hand and tape it in place.
Step 5: Unbolt the glass from the regulator
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and extension to remove the two glass clamp/retainer bolts (through the access holes).
- Torque to 8.8 Nm (78 in-lb) during reassembly.
Step 6: Disconnect the regulator/motor electrical connector
- Unplug the motor connector by depressing the lock tab with a pick tool.
- Clip any wiring retainers out of the door using the trim clip removal tool if needed.
Step 7: Remove the regulator assembly
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and extension to remove the regulator mounting bolts.
- Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lb) during reassembly.
- Angle the regulator out through the large door opening. Go slow to avoid scratching paint or bending the tracks.
Step 8: Move the motor to the new regulator (if replacing regulator only)
- If your new part did not include a motor, remove the motor from the old regulator using a 10mm socket.
- Install the motor onto the new regulator and tighten evenly.
- Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lb).
- Tip: Don’t rotate the motor gear by hand.
Step 9: Install the new regulator
- Place the regulator into the door and start all mounting bolts by hand.
- Tighten the regulator mounting bolts with a 10mm socket and torque wrench.
- Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lb).
- Reconnect the motor electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 10: Reattach the glass and check alignment
- Lower the glass carefully onto the regulator clamps (remove tape only when ready).
- Install the glass clamp/retainer bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 8.8 Nm (78 in-lb).
- Make sure the glass sits evenly in the run channels (the felt guides) before final tightening.
Step 11: Function test before reassembly
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Plug in the window switch and run the window fully down and fully up while watching for smooth movement.
- If it binds, stop immediately and re-check glass seating and regulator bolt tightness.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable again before putting the vapor barrier and panel back on.
Step 12: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel
- Press the vapor barrier back into place. Use butyl tape if the original adhesive won’t stick.
- Reconnect all door panel connectors.
- Hang the panel on the upper ledge and press the clips in around the perimeter using your hands.
- Reinstall screws with a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Snap the switch bezel back in place and reconnect the switch.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- 🧪 Run the rear window up/down 5–10 times. Listen for clicking or cable popping.
- 🧪 Confirm the window seals evenly at the top and doesn’t tilt forward/back.
- 🧪 Verify the rear door locks and speaker (if equipped) still work.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$650 (parts + labor, per rear door)
DIY Cost: $80-$250 (parts only, per rear door)
You Save: $220-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Window Motor and Regulator Assembly replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2015 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.5L | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 2.4L | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.5L | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 2.4L | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.5L | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 2.4L | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.5L | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 2.4L | Sedan |


















