How to Replace Rear Shocks & Front Struts on a 2019 GMC Canyon (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes
How to Replace Rear Shocks & Front Struts on a 2019 GMC Canyon (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes


đź”§ Canyon - Shock Absorber Replacement
On your Canyon, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front suspension uses a strut assembly (a shock with a coil spring around it). Rear shocks are straightforward; front struts are more involved and typically require an alignment afterward.
Difficulty Level: Rear: Beginner–Intermediate / Front: Advanced | Estimated Time: Rear: 1–2 hours (both) / Front: 3–6 hours (both)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
- ⚠️ If doing front struts, avoid disassembling the coil spring unless you are trained—use a complete strut assembly or a shop spring compressor.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of suspension pinch points while raising/lowering the axle or control arm.
- ⚠️ If you remove front struts, get a professional alignment after reassembly.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 10–200 ft-lbs
- Socket set 8mm–24mm (1/2" drive)
- Wrench set 8mm–24mm
- Trim clip tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Pry bar
- Spring compressor (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the wheels that will stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
- Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting using a breaker bar and correct lug socket.
- Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
- If doing the front: plan for an alignment after the repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm what you’re replacing (rear shocks vs front struts)
- If you’re doing the rear: follow Steps 2–6.
- If you’re doing the front: follow Steps 7–14.
- Rear is easier for first-timers.
Step 2: Lift and support the rear
- Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
- Lift the rear at the differential using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lightly support the axle with the floor jack.
- Remove both rear wheels using your lug socket and breaker bar.
Step 3: Remove the lower rear shock bolt
- Support the axle height with the floor jack so the bolt isn’t in a bind.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using the correct socket and wrench.
Step 4: Remove the upper rear shock fastener
- Remove the upper shock fastener using the correct socket and wrench.
- Pull the shock out by hand; use a pry bar if it’s stuck.
Step 5: Install the new rear shock
- Position the new shock the same way as the old one (match the bushings/sleeves).
- Start upper and lower fasteners by hand using your wrench and socket.
- Snug fasteners but do not final-torque yet using a ratchet.
Step 6: Final-torque rear shock fasteners at normal ride height
- Raise the axle with the floor jack until the truck is close to normal ride height (shocks not stretched).
- Torque the rear shock fasteners using a torque wrench:
- Lower shock bolt: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)
- Upper shock fastener: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall wheels using your lug socket. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Lift and support the front (front struts)
- Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support the frame with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove front wheels using your lug socket and breaker bar.
Step 8: Remove components attached to the strut
- Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using the correct socket.
- If needed for clearance, disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using the correct socket and wrench.
- Do not pull on ABS wires.
Step 9: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
- This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
Step 10: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the lower control arm/knuckle area with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts using a breaker bar, correct socket, and wrench.
Step 11: Remove the upper strut mount nuts
- Open the hood.
- Remove the upper strut mount nuts using the correct socket.
- Hold the strut as you remove the last nut, then lift the strut assembly out.
Step 12: Install the new front strut assembly
- Install the new strut into the tower and start the upper nuts by hand using your socket.
- Align the lower strut holes to the knuckle and install bolts/nuts by hand using your socket and wrench.
- Hand-start all threads first.
Step 13: Torque the front fasteners
- Torque upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
- Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs)
- If removed, torque sway bar end link nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall brackets using the correct socket and torque to snug (small fasteners).
Step 14: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck
- Reinstall wheels using your lug socket.
- Lower the truck and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)
âś… After Repair
- Test drive slowly over small bumps and listen for clunks or rattles.
- Re-check that brake hose/ABS wiring is clipped and not rubbing.
- If you replaced front struts: schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- After 50–100 km, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench: 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹12,000–₹30,000 (rear pair) / ₹25,000–₹60,000 (front pair, plus alignment)
DIY Cost: ₹6,000–₹18,000 (rear parts) / ₹15,000–₹45,000 (front parts) + alignment
You Save: ₹5,000–₹20,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000–₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1–2 hours (rear) or 3–5 hours (front).
🎯 Ready to get started?
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