🔧 Prius - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Prius, the rear suspension uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses strut assemblies (a shock + spring together). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear shocks 1.5–3.0 hours | Front struts 3.0–6.0 hours

Assumption: Torque values shown are common Prius specs; verify with Toyota service info if available.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Prius on jack stands before working underneath.
• 🛑 Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising suspension parts.
• 🛑 For front struts, the spring is under high force—use a coil spring compressor or buy complete strut assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• 🛑 Hybrid note: you do not need to disable the high-voltage system for shocks/struts, but keep the car OFF and the key fob away from the vehicle.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Combination wrench set (10mm–19mm)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Pry bar
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorber - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Rear lower shock bolt/nut kit - Qty: 1
• Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount kit - Qty: 1
• Front sway bar end link - Optional if worn - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Use wheel chocks on the wheels staying on the ground.
• Crack the lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift at the correct lift points and set the Prius securely on jack stands.
• Tip: Spray bolts with penetrating oil first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Rear Shocks (recommended when you say “shock absorbers”)

Step 1: Remove rear wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Access the rear shock upper mounts

• Open the hatch.
• Use a trim clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver to remove the rear cargo trim panels as needed to expose the shock upper mount nuts.
• Use needle-nose pliers for stubborn plastic clips.

Step 3: Support the rear suspension

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle beam near the shock side you’re working on.
• Jack up lightly to support the suspension (do not lift the car off the stands).

Step 4: Remove the lower shock bolt

• Use a 17mm socket (and a 17mm wrench if the nut spins) to remove the lower shock bolt/nut at the axle beam.
• If it’s tight, use a breaker bar.

Step 5: Remove the upper shock mount nuts

• Use a 14mm socket to remove the upper mount nuts inside the cargo area.
• Hold the shock so it doesn’t drop suddenly.

Step 6: Remove the old shock and install the new shock

• Remove the shock from the wheel well.
• Install the new shock into position by hand-starting the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Line up the lower mount and insert the lower bolt by hand. Use a pry bar gently if alignment is slightly off.

Step 7: Torque rear shock fasteners

• Use a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range) to tighten hardware.
• Upper mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
• Lower shock bolt/nut: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Tip: Torque with suspension supported by jack.

Step 8: Reinstall cargo trim and wheels

• Reinstall interior panels using the trim clip removal tool (reverse of removal).
• Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the Prius and torque lug nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

Front (Struts) - Only if you meant “front shocks”

Step 9: Remove front wheels and prep

• Lift the front and support with jack stands.
• Remove wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position if slotted (helps alignment).

Step 10: Disconnect brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut

• Use a 10mm socket to remove small bracket bolts holding the brake hose/ABS wire to the strut body.
• Move lines aside gently—do not stretch them.

Step 11: Remove sway bar end link from strut

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the end link nut at the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate wrench while loosening the nut.

Step 12: Separate strut from steering knuckle

• Support the knuckle with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop and pull the axle.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.

Step 13: Remove strut top nuts and remove strut assembly

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the strut top mount nuts (leave one nut loosely threaded until you’re holding the strut).
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 14: Install new strut assembly

• If using a complete strut assembly, install it as-is.
• If transferring springs, use a coil spring compressor (specialty). A spring compressor is a tool that safely squeezes the spring so it can’t “explode” off the strut.
• Position the new strut and hand-start the top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the knuckle to the strut and install the lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket.

Step 15: Torque front strut fasteners and reconnect brackets

• Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts: Torque to 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs)
• Strut top mount nuts: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs)
• Sway bar end link nut: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
• Brake hose/ABS brackets: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
• Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Do a short, slow test drive and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
• If you replaced front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (prevents rapid tire wear).
• Look for any twisted brake hoses or stretched ABS wires.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600–$1,400 (parts + labor, rear only vs front+rear)

DIY Cost: $180–$700 (parts only, depending on shocks vs complete struts)

You Save: $420–$700+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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