🔧 Regal - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Regal, the rear suspension uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses struts (a strut is a shock with a built-in spring mount). I’ll walk you through replacing the rear shocks step-by-step, and I’ll also include the front strut path if that’s what you meant by “shocks.”

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

Assumption: Stock (OEM-style) suspension; torque values can vary by hardware—verify if anything is aftermarket.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of suspension pinch points while raising/lowering the control arm.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts: the coil spring stores huge energy—use a spring compressor correctly, or replace complete strut assemblies to avoid compressing springs.
• ⚠️ If you remove wheels, re-torque lug nuts properly after.
• Battery disconnect is not required for rear shocks/front struts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (20–200 Nm range)
• Socket set metric (10mm–21mm)
• Wrench set metric (10mm–21mm)
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Extensions 3/8" (3" and 6")
• Trim tool set
• Penetrating oil
• Pry bar (12")
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mount kit - Optional but recommended if noisy/worn - Qty: 2
• Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Optional (rusty/stretch bolts) - Qty: 1
• Front strut assemblies - If replacing fronts (easiest for beginners) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - If building struts (not complete assemblies) - Qty: 2
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels if lifting the rear.
• Crack lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket before lifting (about 1/4 turn).
• Spray penetrating oil on the shock/strut bolts and let it soak 5–10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack at the rear jacking point and raise the rear.
• Set the rear on jack stands at the pinch welds/subframe points.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Support the rear suspension arm

• Place the floor jack under the rear lower control arm (near the shock mount).
• Lift gently until the arm is just supported. This prevents the arm from dropping when the shock is removed.

Step 3: Remove the lower rear shock bolt

• Use a 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower shock bolt/nut at the knuckle/control arm area.
• If the bolt is stuck, use a pry bar to relieve tension while you turn it.

Step 4: Remove the upper rear shock fasteners

• Open the trunk and pull back the side trunk liner using a trim tool to access the upper shock mount area.
• Remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
• Lower the shock out of the wheel well.

Step 5: Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock in place and start the upper nuts by hand using a 13mm socket.
• Line up the lower shock eye with the mounting hole and insert the bolt. Use a pry bar if needed.
• Snug the lower bolt using an 18mm socket (do not final-torque yet).

Step 6: Torque the rear shock fasteners at ride height

• Raise the control arm with the floor jack until the suspension is close to normal ride height. This prevents bushing twist and noise.
• Torque the lower shock bolt using a torque wrench: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Torque the upper shock mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
• Final-torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 8 (If you meant front “shocks”): Replace front struts (summary path)

• Remove front wheels using a 19mm socket.
• Disconnect sway bar end link from strut using an 18mm wrench and a hex key set if the stud spins (a hex key holds the stud still).
• Remove brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
• Mark strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Under the hood, remove the strut top nuts using a 13mm socket, then remove the strut.
• If reusing springs, compress with a spring compressor (specialty) and remove the center strut nut with a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
• Reassemble and torque typical fasteners: strut-to-knuckle 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs), strut mount nuts 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs), sway link nut 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
• After front struts, get a wheel alignment.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks over bumps.
• Re-check that trunk liners/clips are secured and nothing rubs the shock.
• After 25–50 km, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench: 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• If you replaced front struts, schedule a 4-wheel alignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹45,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹8,000-₹25,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,500-₹3,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.