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2013 Toyota Highlander
2008 - 2013 Toyota Highlander
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2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Front Strut Replacement

2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Front Strut Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Rear Shock Absorber Replacement

This guide covers replacing the rear shock absorbers on your Highlander. The rear shocks control bouncing and keep the tires planted, especially over bumps or during braking.

Assumption: This is for the rear shock absorbers. The front suspension uses strut assemblies, which are a different repair.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only.
  • ⚠️ Always support your Highlander with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Do not touch orange high-voltage hybrid cables or components. This repair does not require hybrid system service.
  • ⚠️ Replace rear shocks in pairs so the suspension works evenly side to side.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising or lowering the rear suspension arm.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear shock replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch torque wrench
  • 3/8-inch torque wrench
  • 6-inch socket extension
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Rubber mallet
  • Penetrating oil
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock upper mounting hardware kit - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock lower mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Highlander on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
  • 🔩 Lightly loosen the rear wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
  • 🛞 A jack stand is a fixed support that safely holds the vehicle after it is lifted.
  • 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.
  • 💧 Spray penetrating oil on the lower shock bolts if they look rusty, then let it soak for several minutes.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about 1/2 turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack at the rear center jacking point to raise the rear of your Highlander.
  • Place jack stands under the approved rear side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Leave the floor jack lightly supporting the rear suspension arm on the side you are working on.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use a 21mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Support the Rear Suspension Arm

  • Place the floor jack under the rear lower suspension arm near the shock mount.
  • Raise the jack just enough to support the arm. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
  • This keeps the suspension from dropping suddenly when the shock is removed.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Shock Bolt

  • Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the lower shock mounting bolt.
  • If the bolt is stuck, apply penetrating oil and work it back and forth slowly with the breaker bar.
  • Remove the lower bolt and nut using the 17mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet.
  • If needed, tap the bolt out gently with a rubber mallet.

Step 6: Access the Upper Shock Mount

  • Open the rear hatch.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to carefully move the rear cargo side trim enough to access the upper shock mounting nuts.
  • A trim clip removal tool helps remove plastic interior clips without breaking them.
  • Work slowly so the plastic trim clips do not snap.

Step 7: Remove the Upper Shock Mount Nuts

  • Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper shock mounting nuts.
  • Hold the shock body with one hand as you remove the final nut so it does not fall.
  • Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.

Step 8: Compare the Old and New Shock

  • Place the old and new shock absorbers side by side.
  • Make sure the upper mount, lower bushing, and overall length match.
  • Use the supplied new bushings, washers, and hardware if included with the replacement shocks.

Step 9: Install the New Shock Upper Mount

  • Guide the new shock into position by hand.
  • Start the upper mounting nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the upper shock mounting nuts.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install the Lower Shock Bolt

  • Use the floor jack to raise or lower the suspension arm until the lower shock eye lines up with the mounting hole.
  • Slide the lower shock bolt through by hand.
  • Install the nut by hand first.
  • Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lower shock bolt.
  • Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
  • Start bolts by hand first.

Step 11: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Use the same tools and steps to replace the shock absorber on the opposite rear side.
  • Keep the floor jack under the suspension arm on the side being repaired.
  • Torque the opposite side upper nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • Torque the opposite side lower bolt to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Interior Trim

  • Use your hands, the trim clip removal tool, and the flathead screwdriver as needed to reinstall the rear cargo side trim.
  • Press each trim clip fully into place.
  • Make sure no trim panel is loose or pinched.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Install the rear wheels by hand.
  • Thread the lug nuts on by hand first.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands.
  • Lower your Highlander fully to the ground.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the rear lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Bounce each rear corner by hand. The body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly first and listen for clunks, rattles, or rubbing sounds.
  • ✅ Recheck the rear lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
  • ✅ If the rear still feels unstable, inspect rear sway bar links, trailing arm bushings, tires, and alignment.
  • ✅ A wheel alignment is usually not required for rear shock replacement only, but it is recommended if tire wear or pulling is present.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.


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