🔧 Frontier - Rear Brake Shoe & Drum Service

On your Frontier, the rear brakes are drum brakes, so there are no rear rotors to replace. If you were told “rear rotors,” that usually applies to the front brakes (which are rotor-and-pad).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5–4.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Chock the front wheels and keep the truck on jack stands before working.
• 🧤 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🔥 Drums can be hot after driving—let everything cool first.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid is leaking at the backing plate, stop—your wheel cylinder may be leaking.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brake spring pliers (specialty)
• Drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty)
• Brake adjusting spoon (specialty)
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Catch pan
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake shoe set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake drums - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
• Rear drum brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temp brake grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake (rear drums won’t come off if it’s on).
• Chock the front wheels.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the frame.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take off both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the brake drum

• Pull the drum straight off by hand.
• If it’s stuck, tap around the drum hat using a rubber mallet.
• If it still won’t come off, the shoes may be holding it—use a flathead screwdriver and brake adjusting spoon through the backing plate access slot to back off the adjuster (this reduces shoe drag).
• Adjuster spoon = small lever to turn the star wheel.

Step 3: Take a reference photo

• Use your phone and take a clear photo of the entire spring layout before touching anything.
• This saves you if a spring pops off.

Step 4: Clean and inspect

• Spray the assembly with brake cleaner spray over a catch pan.
• Brush rust/dust lightly using a wire brush.
• Inspect for wetness at the wheel cylinder (top of the assembly). If it’s wet, the cylinder is leaking and should be replaced before continuing.

Step 5: Remove the return springs and hold-down hardware

• Remove the main return springs using brake spring pliers (specialty).
• Remove the shoe hold-down springs/pins using a drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty).
• Hold-downs keep the shoe pinned to the backing plate.

Step 6: Remove shoes and adjuster

• Lift the shoes away and disconnect the parking brake lever/cable as needed using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the star-wheel adjuster assembly and set it aside (note its orientation).

Step 7: Prep the backing plate contact points

• On the backing plate, you’ll see raised “pads” where the shoes rub.
• Clean those pads with brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temp brake grease to those pads only using a shop towel.

Step 8: Assemble new shoes with new hardware

• Transfer the parking brake lever (if equipped on the shoe) using needle-nose pliers and a flathead screwdriver, then install it onto the new shoe.
• Install the shoes onto the backing plate and secure them with the new hold-down pins/springs using the drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty).
• Install the adjuster in the same position/orientation as removed.
• Install the new return springs using brake spring pliers (specialty).

Step 9: Initial shoe adjustment (so the drum fits correctly)

• Turn the star wheel using the brake adjusting spoon (specialty) to expand the shoes until the drum is close to fitting.
• Test-fit the drum by hand. You want the drum to slide on with light drag.
• Too tight = overheating; too loose = low pedal.

Step 10: Reinstall drums and wheels

• Install the drum fully by hand.
• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck and torque lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Final adjustment and pedal set

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times to seat the shoes.
• Apply and release the parking brake several times to help the self-adjuster take up slack.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine running, confirm the brake pedal feels firm and consistent.
• Do a slow test drive and make a few gentle stops. Listen for grinding or pulling.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles: Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).
• If the parking brake feels too high/low, the rear shoes need a little more/less adjustment using the brake adjusting spoon (specialty).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$380 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

Quick check so I don’t steer you wrong: when you look behind the rear wheel, do you see a brake caliper (disc setup) or a big closed drum? If you actually have rear discs, tell me and I’ll give you the correct rear pad+rotor procedure.

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.