🔧 Tacoma - Rear Brake Service (Shoes & Drums)

On your Tacoma, the rear brakes are typically drum brakes (not rotors). That means you replace brake shoes inside the drum, and the drum itself if it’s worn or scored.

Before you start: look behind the rear wheel—do you see a flat shiny rotor with a caliper, or a round closed drum? If you confirm you have rotors (disc brakes), tell me and I’ll give you the disc pad/rotor procedure for your Tacoma.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear drums, or they won’t come off.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner (don’t use compressed air).
• ⚠️ If you see brake fluid around the wheel cylinder, stop and replace it (leaks are unsafe).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brake spring pliers (specialty)
• Drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty)
• Brake adjusting spoon (specialty)
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2)
• Wire brush
• Drip pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake shoe set - Qty: 1
• Rear drum brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Rear brake drums - Qty: 2
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
• High-temp brake grease - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1
• Rear wheel cylinders - Qty: 2 Only if leaking

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the transmission to P.
• Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake completely (rear drums won’t remove otherwise).
• Do one side at a time so you can copy the other side.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to crack the lug nuts loose (about 1/4 turn) while the truck is on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the rear differential (or approved lift point).
• Set the frame onto jack stands and gently lower the truck onto them.
• Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Remove the brake drum

• If the drum slides off: pull it straight off by hand.
• If the drum is stuck: thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the drum’s threaded push holes and tighten evenly using a 12mm socket until the drum “walks” off.
• If it still won’t move, back the adjuster off: remove the rubber plug on the backing plate with a flathead screwdriver, then use a brake adjusting spoon to loosen the star wheel a few clicks.

Step 4: Inspect for leaks and damage

• Spray everything with brake cleaner and catch runoff in a drip pan.
• Check the wheel cylinder (small cylinder at the top) for wetness. Any fluid means it’s leaking and should be replaced.
• Check the backing plate pads (where the shoes rub). If heavily grooved, the backing plate may need service.

Step 5: Remove the shoes and hardware

• Take a clear photo of the whole assembly before disassembly.
• Remove the return springs using brake spring pliers (specialty) (this tool hooks and safely stretches the springs).
• Remove the shoe hold-down springs using a drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty).
• Disconnect the adjuster and parking brake linkage using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the shoes.
• Replace hardware with the kit (springs get weak with age).

Step 6: Clean and lubricate the correct spots

• Clean the backing plate and adjuster area using brake cleaner and a wire brush.
• Apply a thin film of high-temp brake grease to the backing plate “contact pads” where the shoes slide (do not get grease on the shoe lining).
• If reusing the adjuster, clean its threads and apply a tiny amount of high-temp brake grease so it turns smoothly.

Step 7: Install the new shoes and hardware

• Install the parking brake lever/link onto the correct new shoe (match your photo) using needle-nose pliers.
• Position both shoes and install the hold-down pins/springs using the hold-down spring tool (specialty).
• Install the adjuster and springs using brake spring pliers (specialty).
• Double-check everything matches the photo and the opposite side layout.

Step 8: Pre-adjust the shoes (so the pedal feels normal)

• Install the drum temporarily.
• If the drum slips on with lots of extra space, remove it and expand the adjuster a few clicks using the brake adjusting spoon (specialty).
• Correct adjustment feels like: the drum slides on, then has a slight, even drag when you spin it by hand.

Step 9: Reinstall the drum and wheels

• Install the drum fully.
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 3–9 on the other rear wheel.

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the shoes).
• Apply and release the parking brake several times, then confirm it holds the truck on a gentle slope.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Do a careful test drive: start at low speed, confirm straight stops, no grinding, and no pulling.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $180-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.