🔧 Civic - Rear Brake Shoe Replacement (Rear “Pads”)

Your Civic DX uses rear drum brakes, so it has brake shoes (inside the drum), not rear brake pads. Replacing the shoes restores stopping power and parking brake hold when the lining is worn or contaminated.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Brake dust can be harmful—wear a mask and use brake cleaner; do not blow dust with compressed air.
• Work on level ground; support the car with jack stands before removing wheels.
• Release the parking brake before removing rear drums, or they will not come off.
• Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brake spring pliers (specialty)
• Brake spoon/adjusting tool (specialty)
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pcs, 25-40mm long)
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake shoe set (replace both sides) - Qty: 1
• Rear drum brake hardware kit (springs/hold-downs/adjuster hardware) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (high-temp) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in 1st gear, and release the parking brake.
• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove yet).
• Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support it on jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the brake drum

• Pull the drum straight off by hand. If it’s stuck, tap around the drum face with the handle of a breaker bar (light taps).
• If it still won’t come off, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the drum’s threaded “push-off” holes and tighten evenly with the 19mm socket (or the correct socket for your bolts) until the drum walks off.
• Spray the inside with brake cleaner and wipe with shop rags.

Step 3: Document the spring layout (important)

• Use your phone to take a clear photo of the springs, adjuster, and parking brake lever on that side.
• Do one side at a time so you can copy the other side if needed.

Step 4: Remove the return springs and hold-down hardware

• Use brake spring pliers (specialty) to remove the large return springs. (Brake spring pliers are shaped to safely unhook strong drum brake springs.)
• Use needle-nose pliers and a flathead screwdriver as needed to unhook smaller springs.
• Remove the shoe hold-down pins/springs using needle-nose pliers and the flathead screwdriver (press, rotate, and release).

Step 5: Remove the adjuster and separate the shoes

• Lift the shoes slightly off the backing plate and remove the star-wheel adjuster assembly using needle-nose pliers.
• If equipped on your setup, disconnect the parking brake lever/cable from the rear shoe using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove both shoes and set them next to the new shoes to match orientation.

Step 6: Clean and lubricate the backing plate contact points

• Spray the backing plate with brake cleaner and wipe with shop rags.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temp brake lubricant to the raised pads on the backing plate where the shoes rub (usually 6 contact points). Use a gloved finger.
• Do not get lube on shoe lining.

Step 7: Transfer/assemble the parking brake lever (if applicable)

• If the parking brake lever mounts to one shoe, move it to the new shoe using needle-nose pliers and a flathead screwdriver to remove/install the retaining clip.
• Reconnect the parking brake cable to the lever using needle-nose pliers.

Step 8: Install the new shoes and hardware

• Position both new shoes on the backing plate.
• Install the hold-down pins/springs using needle-nose pliers and the flathead screwdriver (press and rotate to lock).
• Install the adjuster/star-wheel assembly in the same direction as removed, using needle-nose pliers.
• Use brake spring pliers (specialty) to install the return springs in the same locations as your reference photo.

Step 9: Pre-adjust the shoes (so the drum fits correctly)

• Turn the star wheel to expand the shoes slightly using a brake spoon/adjusting tool (specialty).
• Test-fit the drum by hand. Adjust until the drum slides on with light resistance and can still rotate with a slight, even drag.

Step 10: Reinstall drum and wheels

• Install the drum fully by hand.
• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal 10-15 times to seat the shoes and center the hardware.
• Test the parking brake: it should hold the car firmly; if it’s weak or too tight, re-check shoe adjustment.
• Do a slow test drive in a safe area and confirm no grinding, pulling, or overheating smell.
• If you opened no hydraulics, no bleeding is required. If you accidentally loosened a brake line or wheel cylinder, stop and bleed the brakes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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