🔧 Tacoma - Rear Brake Shoe Replacement (Rear Drum Brakes)

On your Tacoma, the rear brakes are typically drum brakes, which use brake shoes (not pads). Replacing the shoes restores braking and parking-brake holding power when the lining is worn or contaminated.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear drums.
• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brake spring pliers (specialty)
• Drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty)
• Brake adjusting spoon (specialty)
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pcs, 25-40mm long)
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake shoe set - Qty: 1
• Rear drum brake hardware kit (springs/pins/clips) - Qty: 1
• High-temp brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake drums - Qty: 2 Optional if worn/grooved

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock both front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Break the rear lug nuts loose using a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• If you remove multiple springs, take a clear photo first so reassembly is easier.
• If your Tacoma actually has rear disc brakes (caliper/rotor visible), tell me and I’ll give you the rear pad procedure.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear.
• Set the frame/axle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm lug nut socket.

Step 2: Remove the brake drum

• Pull the drum straight off by hand.
• If it’s stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the drum’s push-off holes and tighten evenly with a breaker bar until the drum pops loose.
• If needed, tap around the drum hat with a rubber mallet to help it release.

Step 3: Clean and inspect

• Spray everything with brake parts cleaner and let it drip dry.
• Use a wire brush to clean light rust from the backing plate and drum contact surfaces.
• Inspect the drum inner surface for deep grooves or cracking; replace drums if badly worn.

Step 4: Remove the return springs and adjuster

• Use brake spring pliers (specialty) to remove the upper return spring(s).
• Remove the star-wheel adjuster assembly from the bottom area and set it aside in the same orientation it came out.
• Pro tip: Lay parts on the ground in order.

Step 5: Remove the hold-down pins (shoes to backing plate)

• Use a drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty) to push in and rotate the hold-down cups, then remove the pins/springs.
• Pull the shoes slightly away from the backing plate once the hold-downs are off.

Step 6: Disconnect the parking brake link and remove the shoes

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the clip/retainer at the parking brake lever/link as needed.
• Remove both shoes as an assembly, then separate them on the ground.
• Transfer the parking brake lever to the new shoe if your new shoes don’t include it, using needle-nose pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 7: Lubricate the backing plate contact points

• Apply a very thin film of high-temp brake grease to the backing plate “pads” where the shoes rub.
• Do not get grease on the shoe lining or inside the drum.

Step 8: Install the new shoes and hardware

• Position the new shoes on the backing plate.
• Install the hold-down pins and springs using the drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty).
• Reinstall the adjuster and springs using brake spring pliers (specialty), matching the layout from the other side.
• Make sure the star-wheel adjuster turns freely and sits correctly at the bottom.

Step 9: Adjust the shoes (initial adjustment)

• Install the drum loosely to check fit.
• Use a brake adjusting spoon (specialty) to turn the star wheel until you feel a light, even drag when rotating the drum by hand.
• If the drum won’t go on, back the adjuster off a few clicks with the brake adjusting spoon (specialty).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels using a 21mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the truck, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal firmly 10-15 times to seat the shoes before driving.
• Apply and release the parking brake several times to help the self-adjuster settle.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or pulsation.
• After a short drive, recheck for abnormal heat or smell from one rear wheel.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.