How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2020 Mazda CX-5 (EPB Service Mode)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, EPB retraction steps, and key torque specs
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2020 Mazda CX-5 (EPB Service Mode)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, EPB retraction steps, and key torque specs
🔧 CX-5 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads and rotors, then resetting the rear electronic parking brake (EPB) so the calipers can clamp correctly again. On your CX-5, the rear calipers are EPB-equipped, so you must retract/service the EPB before pushing the pistons in.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your CX-5 on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Let brakes cool fully; rotors/calipers can burn you.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- ⚠️ EPB warning: you must place the EPB into service mode (retract) before compressing the rear pistons.
- ⚠️ Brake dust/cleaner: wear safety glasses and a dust mask; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Dust mask
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (1/2")
- Torque wrench (3/8")
- Socket set (8mm-21mm)
- 17mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 19mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Caliper hanger hook
- C-clamp (6")
- Brake piston compression tool (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Brake cleaner spray
- Bidirectional scan tool with Mazda EPB service mode (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
- Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake pad lubricant (brake quiet) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the front wheels with wheel chocks, and leave the transmission in P.
- Turn ignition OFF and keep the key fob away from the vehicle while your hands are in the brakes.
- Plan to retract the EPB with a bidirectional scan tool. (Bidirectional means it can command parts like the EPB motor, not just read codes.)
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Retract the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) into service mode
- Connect your bidirectional scan tool with Mazda EPB service mode (specialty) to the OBD-II port.
- Turn ignition ON (engine OFF).
- Use the scan tool menu to run the rear EPB/parking brake Service Mode (sometimes called “Pad Replacement Mode” or “EPB Maintenance Mode”).
- Confirm you hear the rear EPB motors retract.
Step 2: Lift the rear and remove the wheels
- Use a breaker bar (1/2") with a 19mm socket to loosen the rear lug nuts.
- Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take both rear wheels off.
Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (and support it)
- Locate the rear caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads).
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8") to remove the caliper slide bolts (also called slide pins).
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a caliper hanger hook (do not let it dangle by the hose).
Step 4: Remove the pads and caliper bracket
- Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
- Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle.
Step 5: Remove the old rotor
- Spray the rotor hat and hub area with brake cleaner spray.
- If the rotor is seized, tap around the rotor “hat” using a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
- Remove the rotor.
Step 6: Clean the hub and install the new rotor
- Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (this helps prevent brake pulsation).
- Clean the new rotor friction surfaces using brake cleaner spray.
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
Step 7: Service the bracket hardware and slide pins
- Remove old abutment clips from the bracket (use a flat-blade screwdriver).
- Install new clips from the rear brake hardware kit.
- Pull the slide pins out, wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) and reinstall.
- Grease only the pin, not the pad surface.
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Position the bracket over the new rotor.
- Install bracket bolts by hand, then tighten with a 17mm socket and torque wrench (1/2").
- Torque to 98-118 Nm (72-87 ft-lbs)
Step 9: Install the new pads
- Apply a thin layer of brake pad lubricant (brake quiet) to the pad backing plates where they contact the caliper/bracket (not on the pad friction material).
- Install inner and outer pads into the bracket.
Step 10: Compress the rear caliper piston and reinstall the caliper
- Use a brake piston compression tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
- If needed, use a C-clamp (6") carefully and keep the piston square.
- Set the caliper over the new pads and install the slide bolts.
- Tighten slide bolts with a 14mm socket and torque wrench (3/8").
- Torque to 25-30 Nm (18-22 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side
- Do the same pad/rotor replacement steps on the opposite rear wheel.
Step 12: Re-enable EPB and reinstall wheels
- Use the bidirectional scan tool with Mazda EPB service mode (specialty) to command the EPB out of service mode (apply/initialize).
- Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2") and 19mm socket.
- Torque to 108-147 Nm (80-108 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- With the vehicle on the ground, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Turn ignition ON and confirm no EPB/brake warning lights remain on.
- Do a cautious test drive and verify no grinding, pulling, or pulsation.
- Bed-in the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30-40 mph, allowing a little cooling between stops.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench (1/2").
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $330-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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