🔧 Ranger - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, retract the rear caliper pistons (and parking brake mechanism if equipped), then replace the rear pads and rotors. Doing this correctly restores stopping power and prevents noise, vibration, and uneven wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Ranger with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ If your Ranger has an electronic parking brake (EPB) button, put the EPB into service mode before compressing caliper pistons.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Avoid inhaling brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 20-250 ft-lbs
• Metric socket set 10mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-21mm
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Ratchet 1/2"
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Torx bit set
• Brake cleaner spray
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• High-temperature anti-seize - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the transmission to Park.
• Chock both front wheels.
• If your Ranger has an EPB button (electronic parking brake), you must retract it before pushing the pistons. EPB is the motor-driven parking brake on the rear calipers.
• Loosen rear lug nuts slightly with a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Put the parking brake in the correct state

• If your Ranger has a foot-operated parking brake pedal (no EPB button), make sure it is fully released.
• If your Ranger has an EPB button, use a scan tool to command EPB Service Mode (preferred). Use a scan tool (specialty) if available.
• If you do not have a scan tool, tell me if you have an EPB button and I’ll give you the exact in-vehicle service-mode sequence for your Ranger.

Step 2: Lift the rear and remove the wheels

• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved rear lift point, then set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2".

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (pads still installed)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side of the caliper.
• Use a metric socket set 10mm-21mm and remove the slide pin bolts (common sizes are 13mm or 14mm; choose the socket that fully seats).
• Lift the caliper off and hang it with a caliper hanger hook so the brake hose is not stretched.
• Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver if they’re stuck.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a metric socket set 10mm-21mm and breaker bar 1/2" (common sizes are 15mm or 18mm).
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it using a Torx bit set.
• Pull the rotor straight off.
• If it’s rust-stuck, strike the rotor hat with a rubber mallet and work it off evenly.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner spray.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temperature anti-seize to the hub face (avoid the wheel studs).
• Install the new rotor. If equipped with a retaining screw, install it using a Torx bit set and snug it (it’s just a hold-down, not a “strength” fastener).

Step 7: Service the caliper bracket and hardware

• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands with a wire brush so the new pads can slide freely.
• Install new hardware clips from the rear brake hardware kit.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant where the pad “ears” contact the clips.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Reinstall the bracket bolts using a metric socket set 10mm-21mm and ratchet 1/2".
• Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston(s)

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (this helps fluid return smoothly).
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the rear caliper piston fully back.
• If your Ranger has EPB and it is not in service mode, do not force the piston—stop and set EPB service mode first.
• Go slow to avoid overflow at the reservoir.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad backing plate contact points (where they touch the caliper), avoiding friction material.
• Reinstall the caliper over the pads.
• Install slide pin bolts using a metric socket set 10mm-21mm and ratchet 3/8".
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the Ranger off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 20-250 ft-lbs.
• Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• If equipped with EPB, exit service mode (scan tool) and confirm the parking brake applies/releases normally.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for scraping or grinding.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.