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2018 Toyota C-HR
2018 Toyota C-HR
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TOYOTA CH-R REAR BRAKE ROTORS & PADS  HOW TO SERVICE BRAKES CHANGE REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE AX10 AX50

TOYOTA CH-R REAR BRAKE ROTORS & PADS HOW TO SERVICE BRAKES CHANGE REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE AX10 AX50

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Toyota C-HR (EPB Service Mode)

Step-by-step rear brake job with required tools/parts, EPB retract procedure, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Toyota C-HR (EPB Service Mode)

Step-by-step rear brake job with required tools/parts, EPB retract procedure, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

đź”§ C-HR - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

Replacing your A4—(sorry) your C-HR rear pads and rotors means removing the rear calipers, swapping the rotors, and installing new pads with proper lubrication and torque. The key “gotcha” on many C-HR setups is the electronic parking brake (EPB), which often must be put into service mode before compressing the rear pistons.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your C-HR with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ If your C-HR has an electronic parking brake, you must retract it with EPB service mode before pushing pistons in, or you can damage the caliper.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages finishes quickly.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug nut socket (21mm)
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (3/8")
  • Torque wrench (1/2")
  • Socket set (10mm-19mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm-19mm)
  • Hex bit socket set (5mm-8mm)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pry bar (12")
  • Caliper hanger hook
  • Brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Wire brush
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop rags
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
  • Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm lug socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; if it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a clean rag so it won’t overflow when pistons retract.
  • If your C-HR has an EPB, plan to use a scan tool with EPB service mode to retract the rear calipers before compressing pistons.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the proper jacking point, then place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under safe support points.
  • Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm lug socket.

Step 2: Confirm EPB type (important)

  • Look inside: if you have a parking brake switch/button (not a foot pedal), treat it as EPB.
  • If it’s EPB, you must retract it via a scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) before pushing pistons in.
  • Don’t force the piston on EPB calipers.

Step 3: Put the EPB into service mode (EPB-equipped only)

  • Connect your scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty).
  • Follow the scan tool menu to run Parking Brake Maintenance Mode / Pad Replacement Mode and retract both rear calipers.
  • Verify the caliper motors retract (you’ll typically hear/feel it operate).

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper

  • Turn the steering is not applicable; instead, rotate the hub by hand as needed to access bolts.
  • Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using the correct socket or hex bit socket (varies by caliper hardware).
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket. Support it with a caliper hanger hook—do not let it hang by the hose.

Step 5: Remove pads and hardware

  • Remove the old pads from the bracket by hand or using a flathead screwdriver gently.
  • Remove the old abutment clips/hardware using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the pad contact points on the bracket using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a breaker bar (1/2") and the correct socket.
  • Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
  • Torque to OEM spec when reinstalling (this bolt is typically very tight). If you want, tell me what socket size your bracket bolts use and I’ll confirm the correct torque path for your C-HR.

Step 7: Remove the old rotor

  • Pull the rotor off the hub by hand.
  • If it’s stuck from rust, spray the hub/rotor hat area with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer to break it free.
  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat (prevents pulsation).

Step 8: Install the new rotor

  • Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop rags to remove shipping oil.
  • Install the rotor onto the hub. Use 1-2 lug nuts hand-tight to hold it flush while you work.

Step 9: Service the slide pins

  • Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
  • Wipe them clean with shop rags, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease.
  • Reinsert pins and confirm they move smoothly.
  • Sticky pins cause uneven pad wear.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Reinstall the bracket bolts using the correct socket and tighten using a torque wrench (1/2").
  • Torque to OEM spec. (I can provide the exact torque once you confirm whether your rear caliper uses hex-slide pins or standard bolts—Toyota used more than one rear brake hardware setup.)

Step 11: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install new abutment clips from the rear brake hardware kit.
  • Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease where the pad “ears” contact the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 12: Compress the caliper piston

  • Use a brake piston compressor tool (specialty) to push the piston back slowly. (This tool presses the piston straight in without cocking it.)
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop if it starts to overflow.
  • If your C-HR is EPB-equipped and you did not retract via scan tool, do not continue.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper

  • Place the caliper over the new pads.
  • Reinstall the slide pin bolts using the correct socket or hex bit socket.
  • Tighten using a torque wrench (3/8") and torque to OEM spec.

Step 14: Repeat on the other side

  • Repeat Steps 4–13 for the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace pads and rotors on both rear sides together.

Step 15: Re-enable EPB (EPB-equipped only)

  • Use the scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) to exit maintenance mode and apply/release the parking brake per the scan tool prompts.

Step 16: Reinstall wheels

  • Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
  • Lower your C-HR off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • With the vehicle still parked, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • Test the parking brake function (especially EPB): apply and release it, listen for normal operation.
  • Road test at low speed first. Verify no grinding, pulling, or brake warning lights.
  • Pad bedding (break-in): make 6–8 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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