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2018 Toyota Avalon
2018 Toyota Avalon
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Toyota Avalon (2008-2018): Rear Brake and Rotor Replacement!

Toyota Avalon (2008-2018): Rear Brake and Rotor Replacement!

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Toyota Avalon (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step rear brake job with tools, parts list, torque specs, stuck rotor tips, and safety checks

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Toyota Avalon (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step rear brake job with tools, parts list, torque specs, stuck rotor tips, and safety checks

Orion
Orion

🔧 Avalon - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swapping the brake pads, and replacing the rear rotors. The key is to support the caliper safely, compress the caliper piston correctly, and make sure the parking brake system (if it uses “drum-in-hat” shoes) isn’t holding the rotor on.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
  • 🧱 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
  • 🔥 Brakes can be very hot; let them cool before touching.
  • 😷 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⛔ Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
  • ⚠️ Parking brake must be fully released before rotor removal.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp (6")
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pieces, 25-40mm long)
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake.
  • Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Lift the rear using a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
  • Turn the steering wheel straight and keep the key away from the car so no one can accidentally press the brake pedal.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

  • Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 2: Remove the rear brake caliper

  • Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper.
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two slide bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket.
  • Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook (this keeps tension off the brake hose).

Step 3: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

  • Pull the old brake pads out of the bracket.
  • Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • Torque spec (reinstall later): Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the rotor (and deal with a stuck rotor if needed)

  • If the rotor slides off by hand, remove it now.
  • If the rotor is stuck to the hub, install two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the threaded “push-off” holes in the rotor hat.
  • Tighten the two bolts evenly using a ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
  • If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to help it release.

Step 4A (only if the rotor won’t come off): Back off the parking brake adjuster

  • Some Avalons use small parking brake shoes inside the rotor “hat” (often called drum-in-hat).
  • Remove the rubber access plug (if present) and use a flathead screwdriver to turn the star wheel adjuster (a toothed wheel that tightens/loosens the parking brake shoes) to loosen the shoes.
  • Retry rotor removal by hand, or with the M8 x 1.25 bolts.
  • Tip: Loosen a little at a time.

Step 5: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush.
  • Spray the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean (removes shipping oil).
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 6: Service the caliper bracket and install new hardware

  • Clean the pad contact areas on the bracket using a wire brush.
  • Install the new pad clips from the rear brake hardware kit.
  • Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

  • Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (this helps the fluid move back as you compress).
  • Use an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston straight back into the caliper.
  • If it won’t compress smoothly, stop—don’t force it.
  • Tip: Slow pressure helps prevent seal damage.

Step 8: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

  • Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) where the pads slide on the clips (keep grease off the pad/rotor friction surfaces).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.
  • Reinstall the caliper over the pads.
  • Install the two slide bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheels

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • With the car on the ground, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
  • Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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