🔧 BRZ - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swap the rear brake pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the brakes. This restores stopping power and prevents vibration/pulsation from worn or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Work on one side at a time so you can compare parts as you go.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (the BRZ uses a parking brake inside the rear rotor “hat”).
• ⚠️ If you compress the caliper piston, watch the brake fluid level so it doesn’t overflow.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 25-40mm long)
• Brake cleaner spray
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
• High-temp brake lubricant - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully so the rear rotors can come off.
• Loosen rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the car (do not remove them yet).
• Take a quick photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the rear and remove the wheels

• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Lift the rear with the floor jack and support it on jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not hang it by the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel slightly if you need better access (rear access is usually fine).
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
• Never let the caliper dangle by the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and inspect

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean.
• Check the caliper boots for tears and the rotor for deep grooves or heavy rust lips.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor (parking brake is inside the rotor)

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• If the rotor is stuck, thread the M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s push-off holes and tighten evenly with the 3/8" ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
• If it’s still stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet while pulling outward.
• If the rotor won’t come off because the parking brake shoes are tight, remove the access plug (if equipped) and use a flat-blade screwdriver to back off the star adjuster a few clicks, then retry.

Step 6: Clean the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner spray.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• A clean hub helps prevent brake vibration.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) using the torque wrench.

Step 8: Service the slide pins and pad hardware

• Remove the slide pins from the bracket by hand (they pull out).
• Wipe clean, then apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone brake grease to the pins (not the threads).
• Install new pad hardware clips (if included) and apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears contact the clips.
• Grease only metal-to-metal contact points.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then slowly compress using the C-clamp (6" minimum).
• Go slowly and keep the piston straight so it doesn’t bind.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level and remove excess if it gets too high.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Set the caliper over the pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) using the torque wrench.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using the torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm before driving.
• Engage and release the parking brake a few times to confirm it holds and releases normally.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT rating shown on the reservoir cap).
• Test drive at low speed first, then perform a brake bed-in: 6-10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 10 mph with cooling_toggle between stops (no full stop holding).
• Recheck for leaks, odd noises, or pulling to one side.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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