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2018 Ram 2500
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  • Guides
  • Ram 2500
  • 2018
  • How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Ram 2500 (DIY Guide)
How to Replace Rear Brakes 2011-2018 RAM 2500

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2011-2018 RAM 2500

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Ram 2500 (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step rear brake job with tools list, parts, parking brake tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Ram 2500 (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step rear brake job with tools list, parts, parking brake tips, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

đź”§ 2500 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This job replaces your rear brake pads and rotors, which restores braking performance and prevents metal-to-metal damage. On your 2500, the rear parking brake is typically a small drum brake inside the “hat” of the rotor, so releasing the parking brake is critical before rotor removal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on level ground, chock the front wheels, and support the axle with jack stands before removing wheels.
  • 🔥 Brakes can be extremely hot; let everything cool before touching the caliper/rotor.
  • đź§´ Brake dust is harmful; avoid blowing it out with air—use brake cleaner.
  • đź§± Never hang the caliper by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
  • 🦶 Make sure the parking brake is fully released before rotor removal.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2" drive)
  • Lug nut socket (22mm)
  • Socket set (13mm, 18mm, 21mm)
  • Ratchet (1/2")
  • Caliper piston compressor or C-clamp (specialty)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park your 2500 on level ground and put the transmission in Park.
  • Release the parking brake fully (it can lock the rotor in place).
  • Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting (use a 22mm lug nut socket and breaker bar).
  • Lift the rear axle and set it securely on jack stands before removing wheels.
  • Do one side at a time to compare.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear axle housing.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the axle and lower onto the stands.
  • Remove the lug nuts using a 22mm lug nut socket and ratchet (1/2"), then remove the wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; make sure you have access behind the caliper.
  • Remove the caliper guide/slide bolts using an 13mm socket and ratchet (1/2").
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and suspend it with a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire.
  • Do not twist or stretch the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the brake pads and hardware

  • Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove pad clips/hardware using a flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket (some setups use 21mm socket) and a breaker bar (1/2").
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 271 Nm (200 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and deal with the parking brake if it’s stuck)

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
  • If the rotor is stuck from rust, tap around the rotor “hat” using a dead blow hammer.
  • If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be hanging up:
    • Use a flat-blade screwdriver through the access slot to back off the parking brake adjuster (star wheel) slightly.
    • Then pull the rotor off.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner so the rotor sits flat.
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.
  • If the rotor keeps wobbling while you work, temporarily hold it with 1-2 lug nuts hand-tight using a 22mm lug nut socket.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

  • Reinstall the bracket and start the bolts by hand.
  • Tighten using an 18mm socket (or 21mm socket) and a torque wrench (1/2" drive): Torque to 271 Nm (200 ft-lbs).
  • Install new pad clips/hardware into the bracket (press in by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

  • Remove the brake master cylinder cap under the hood (this helps fluid return).
  • Compress the caliper piston slowly using a caliper piston compressor or C-clamp (specialty). A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston back in.
  • Watch the brake fluid level—do not let it overflow.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

  • Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease to the slide pins and pad contact points (do not get grease on pad friction material or rotor face).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.
  • Place the caliper over the new pads and install the guide/slide bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench (1/2" drive).
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the truck to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2" drive): Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Pump the brake pedal and check fluid

  • Before moving the truck, pump the brake pedal 8–15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off if needed (do not overfill).

âś… After Repair

  • With the engine running, press the brake pedal and confirm it stays firm.
  • Test at low speed first (5–10 mph) and confirm there are no grinding noises.
  • Bed-in the new pads: do 6–10 medium stops from 35 mph to 5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops.
  • Recheck for leaks, and re-torque lug nuts after 25–50 miles: Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $350-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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