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2018 Nissan Armada
2017 - 2024 Nissan Armada
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Nissan armada 2017, rear brake pads and rotors replacement

Nissan armada 2017, rear brake pads and rotors replacement

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
13/16"
13/16"
Socket
or (21mm)
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Nissan Armada (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, and parking brake (drum-in-hat) tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Nissan Armada (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, and parking brake (drum-in-hat) tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

Orion
Orion

🔧 Armada - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

On your Armada, the rear pads clamp the rotor to slow the vehicle, and worn pads/warped rotors can cause grinding, squealing, vibration, or longer stopping distances. This job replaces both rear rotors and pads, then re-seats the caliper piston and verifies the parking brake (drum-in-hat) isn’t dragging.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the Armada with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • 🛑 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
  • 🛑 Release the parking brake fully before removing rear rotors (the parking brake shoes are inside the rotor hat).
  • 🛑 Do not let the brake caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hanger.
  • 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • 🛑 If brake fluid rises near the cap, remove a little with a syringe before compressing pistons.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
  • Wheel chocks - Qty: 2
  • Lug wrench or 21mm socket
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Socket set (10mm-21mm)
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp (6") or brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
  • Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Brake cleaner
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Brake caliper hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic caliper grease) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and turn the engine off.
  • Release the parking brake fully (foot pedal should be up).
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
  • If fluid is near the “MAX” line, use a towel and remove a small amount before piston compression.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

  • Use a lug wrench or 21mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper rear jacking point, then set the rear onto jack stands.
  • Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
  • Remove the rear wheels with the 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not stretch the hose)

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear; just position yourself for access.
  • Locate the rear brake caliper on one side.
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it using a caliper hanger hook (specialty).
  • Tip: Hang it from the coil spring.

Step 3: Remove pads and hardware

  • Remove the old pads from the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad lands with brake cleaner and a wire brush until smooth.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
  • Remove the bracket and set it aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor (parking brake shoes are inside)

  • Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
  • If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat area with a rubber mallet while pulling outward.
  • If it still won’t come off, use a flathead screwdriver to access and back off the parking brake adjuster through the access slot (drum-in-hat adjuster) until the rotor frees up.
  • Tip: Small turns make a big difference.

Step 6: Prep hub face and install new rotor

  • Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush and brake cleaner (a flat, clean hub helps prevent rotor wobble).
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.
  • If the rotor feels tight going on, verify the parking brake shoes aren’t expanded (adjuster backed off enough).

Step 7: Reinstall bracket and torque bolts

  • Reinstall the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
  • Install bracket bolts by hand first, then tighten with a 19mm socket.
  • Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

  • Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a thin film of brake lubricant to the clip contact points (where pad ears slide).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • A brake caliper compression tool is a tool that slowly pushes the piston back into the caliper so thicker new pads will fit.
  • Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6") or brake caliper compression tool (specialty) to press the piston straight in slowly.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop if it’s close to overflowing.

Step 10: Reinstall caliper and torque slide bolts

  • Place the caliper over the new pads and bracket.
  • Install the slide pin bolts by hand, then tighten using a 14mm socket.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

  • Repeat Steps 2 through 10 on the opposite rear side.
  • Use brake cleaner to remove any fingerprints/grease from rotor surfaces.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the Armada to the ground using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm it holds and releases normally.
  • Road test at low speed first; confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
  • Pad bedding (recommended): make 8–10 smooth stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, allowing light cooling between stops; avoid sitting stopped with hard pedal pressure immediately after.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


Quick check (so I tailor this perfectly): Does your Armada have a foot-operated parking brake pedal (most do), or an electronic parking brake switch?

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