🔧 Terrain - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, taking the rear calipers off, replacing the pads and rotors, then reinstalling everything with the correct torque. On your Terrain, the rear brakes may be tied to an electronic parking brake (EPB), so you must put the EPB into service mode before pushing the caliper pistons back.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let brakes cool completely; hot rotors can burn you.
• ⚠️ If your Terrain has an electronic parking brake, you must retract it with a scan tool service mode before compressing the piston, or you can damage the caliper/EPB.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Brake dust and cleaner are hazardous; wear safety glasses and gloves.
• Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key fob away from the vehicle so the EPB doesn’t auto-apply.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Flat trim tool
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Threadlocker (blue)
• Scan tool with GM EPB service mode (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the front wheels with wheel chocks, and make sure the transmission is in Park.
• Release the parking brake before lifting the rear of the vehicle.
• If equipped with EPB: use a scan tool with GM EPB service mode (specialty) to command “Brake Pad Service Mode.” (A “specialty” scan tool is a diagnostic tablet that can command the parking brake motors.)
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top) so fluid can move back as you compress pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Put the EPB into service mode (if equipped)

• Use a scan tool with GM EPB service mode (specialty) and select the EPB function to retract/enter pad service mode.
• If your Terrain has a manual cable parking brake (no EPB motor on the caliper), skip this step.
• If you’re unsure, look for an EPB switch.

Step 2: Lift the rear and remove the wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to slightly loosen the rear lug nuts before lifting.
• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support both sides with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear, but position your body so you can see the caliper bolts clearly.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord so it does not hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand. If they’re stuck, use a flat trim tool gently.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and a breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Remove the rotor by pulling it straight off the hub.
• If the rotor is rust-stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat firmly (not the studs) until it breaks free.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor’s friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray to remove packaging oil.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub and hold it in place temporarily with 1-2 lug nuts hand-tight (use the 19mm socket lightly).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Install the new pad abutment clips from the rear brake hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad “ears” slide on the clips (do not get grease on pad/rotor surfaces).
• Reinstall the bracket and start bolts by hand, then tighten using an 18mm socket.
• Apply threadlocker (blue) to bracket bolts if not pre-coated.
• Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Make sure EPB service mode is active (if equipped) before compressing.
• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to push the caliper piston straight back slowly until it bottoms.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level; if it rises too high, remove some fluid (do not overflow onto paint).

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of high-temp silicone brake grease to the pad backing plate contact points where it touches the caliper (not on friction material).
• Slide the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pin bolt holes.
• Install slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 19mm socket.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Exit EPB service mode (if equipped)

• Use the scan tool with GM EPB service mode (specialty) to command EPB to relearn/close and exit service mode.

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3) if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake to confirm it operates normally (especially if EPB-equipped).
• Do a careful test drive: start with slow stops, listen for grinding, and confirm straight braking.
• Bed-in the pads: do several moderate stops from 30-40 mph with cool-down time between stops.
• Recheck for leaks, loose hardware noise, and re-torque lug nuts after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.