🔧 Edge - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, taking the rear calipers and brackets off, replacing the rotors and pads, then reassembling and bedding-in the brakes. On your Edge, the biggest “gotcha” is the parking brake system—if it’s electronic, you must put it in a service mode before pushing the caliper piston back in.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Edge with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ If your Edge has an electronic parking brake (EPB), you must retract it (service mode) before compressing the caliper piston, or you can damage the caliper/EPB.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is irritating—wear gloves and a dust mask; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Rotors and calipers can be hot; let everything cool before starting.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it strips paint quickly.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Bungee cord
• C-clamp brake piston tool
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask
• Scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
• Brake fluid (DOT 4 LV) - Qty: 1 bottle

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and set wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Check your parking brake type: if you have a console-mounted parking brake switch/button, you likely have EPB and must use service mode before compressing the piston.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near MAX, siphon a little out (so it doesn’t overflow when you push pistons back).

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved jacking point, then place jack stands and lower onto them.
• Remove the rear wheels with a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Put the parking brake into service mode (EPB only)

• Scan tool method (recommended): Connect a scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) and run the rear EPB “Maintenance/Service Mode” or “Pad Replacement Mode”.
• If you do NOT have EPB: Skip this step.
• If unsure, stop and confirm before compressing.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not let it hang)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear; position yourself for clear access.
• Remove the caliper guide/slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket (some setups use a 15mm socket).
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Hang it from the suspension spring using a bungee cord.

Step 4: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket.
• Set the bracket aside on a towel; don’t stretch or twist the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Spray the hub/rotor center area with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
• If the rotor is stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it free.
• Remove the rotor from the hub.

Step 6: Clean and prep the hub and bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (where the rotor sits). A clean hub helps prevent rotor wobble.
• Clean the caliper bracket pad “tracks” and install the new hardware/abutment clips using needle-nose pliers if needed.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips. Keep grease off pad friction material.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean both rotor faces with brake cleaner spray and shop towels (new rotors are shipped with protective oil).
• Place the rotor on the hub. Hold it in place with one lug nut hand-threaded (use your 21mm socket to snug lightly).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket and torque it

• Reinstall the caliper bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten using an 18mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, double-check the brake fluid reservoir level.
• Use a C-clamp brake piston tool to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper until it bottoms.
• If EPB: Only do this after Step 2 (service mode). If the piston won’t move smoothly, stop—don’t force it.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Apply a small amount of silicone brake lubricant to the caliper slide pins (if removed) and the pad backing plate contact points. Thin coat only.
• Set the caliper back over the pads/rotor.
• Install and tighten the guide/slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket (or 15mm socket, whichever fits) and a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower the Edge off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Exit EPB service mode (EPB only)

• Use the scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) to command “Close/Apply” and exit maintenance mode.
• Verify the parking brake applies and releases normally with the switch.

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 4 LV if needed.
• Do a careful test drive: confirm normal braking, no grinding, and no pulling.
• Bed-in the pads (break-in): do 6-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, with cool-down time between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first ~200 miles.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.