🔧 Murano - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble with correct torque. This restores braking performance and fixes pulsation/grinding caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the Murano with jack stands before going under or pulling hard on bolts.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; the piston can pop out and leak fluid.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is hazardous—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (rear rotors can be held by the parking brake shoes).
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages paint fast.
• Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Disposable nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake caliper hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Threadlocker (medium strength) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors may not come off if it’s set).
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap loosely set on top so fluid can move as you compress pistons.
• Tip: Put a towel under the reservoir.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the rear center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear side support points and lower onto the stands.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not let it hang)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear access; position yourself for clear access to the caliper.
• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord.
• Tip: Never hang the caliper by the hose.

Step 3: Remove pads and hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rear rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat evenly with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If the rotor won’t come off, confirm the parking brake is fully released; then tap again with the rubber mallet.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat (prevents brake pulsation).
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the studs and braking surfaces).
• Clean the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket and start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to snug them.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
• Tip: Medium threadlocker helps keep bolts secure.

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips into the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease where the pad “ears” slide on the clips (do not get grease on pad material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper (this makes room for thicker new pads).
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress; if it rises near the top, remove some fluid safely before it overflows.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–10 on the other side so braking stays even left-to-right.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the Murano until the tires just touch the ground so they won’t spin.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed (use the correct fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal and does not sink.
• Do a slow test drive and confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Pad break-in (bedding): do 6–10 gentle stops from 30–40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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