🔧 GX460 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear brake calipers/brackets, swap the rotors, and install new pads/hardware. On your GX460 the parking brake is a separate drum-style system inside the rear rotor “hat,” so the parking brake must be released to remove/install the rotor.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔥 Brakes get hot—work on a cool axle to avoid burns.
• 🧴 Brake dust/cleaner—wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake before rotor removal (rear parking brake shoes are inside the rotor).
• 🔩 If you open the bleeder, keep the brake fluid reservoir from running low.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (about 40-50mm long)
• Brake cleaner
• Catch pan
• 10mm wrench
• Clear bleed hose
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, turn the ignition off, and chock the front wheels.
• 🅿️ Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• 🔓 Slightly loosen the rear lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• ⬆️ Jack up the rear and set the frame on jack stands; keep the jack lightly supporting as backup.
• 🧴 Open the hood and check brake fluid level; you may need to remove a little fluid if it’s near MAX (pads going in pushes fluid up).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts and take off both rear wheels.
• Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 2: Remove the rear brake caliper (do not stretch the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel straight and locate the rear caliper on the axle.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the caliper slide pin bolts (the smaller bolts).
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord from the suspension.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) for the caliper slide pin bolts during reassembly.

Step 3: Remove pads and hardware

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck).
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket.
• Use brake cleaner and a wire brush to clean the bracket pad ledges where the clips sit.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the two caliper bracket bolts (the larger bolts holding the bracket to the knuckle).
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs) for the caliper bracket bolts during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and retract the parking brake shoes if needed)

• If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If it still won’t come off, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s jacking holes and tighten evenly to push the rotor off the hub.
• If the rotor won’t slide off due to the internal parking brake shoes, remove the rubber access plug (if equipped) and use a flathead screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster to retract the shoes.
• Small turns—try rotor movement often.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean the hub face (the rotor must sit flat).
• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove protective oil.
• Install the new rotor and hold it in place with 1-2 lug nuts hand-tight (use the 21mm socket).

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston and use a C-clamp to slowly push the piston back in.
• A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses the piston in evenly.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; don’t let it overflow.

Step 8: Reinstall the bracket with new hardware clips

• Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket.
• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to pad ears where they slide in the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Use a 14mm socket to install the slide pin bolts.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Optional—bleed a small amount if pedal feels soft

• Put a clear bleed hose on the bleeder screw and route it to a catch pan.
• Use a 10mm wrench to crack the bleeder open briefly while a helper presses the brake pedal slowly, then close it before the pedal comes up.
• Keep the reservoir topped with DOT 3 brake fluid.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times before driving until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧴 Recheck brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• 🅿️ Test the parking brake hold on a safe incline; if it’s weak, the parking brake shoes may need adjustment.
• 🚗 Bed-in pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30-40 mph with cool-down time between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• 🔍 Check for leaks, abnormal noises, or pulling during a careful test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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