🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swap the rear brake pads, and replace the rear rotors. This restores braking performance and prevents noise/vibration when rotors are worn, grooved, or warped.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brakes may be hot; let everything cool before starting.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake OFF during the job (rear rotors can trap parking brake shoes).
• ⚠️ If your Grand Cherokee has an electronic parking brake, keep the key away so no one activates it.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
• Brake hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Make sure the parking brake is OFF.
• Loosen (crack) the rear wheel lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll watch the level as you compress the caliper piston.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jack point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear; just position yourself for access.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord. Never let it dangle by the hose.
• Caliper slide pin bolts: Torque to 35 N·m (26 ft-lbs)

Step 3: Remove the pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket (they snap in/out).
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using brake cleaner, shop rags, and a wire brush.
• Clean metal helps pads slide smoothly.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Caliper bracket bolts: Torque to 169 N·m (125 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck, spray the hub center with brake cleaner and tap the rotor hat area firmly (not the braking surface) while rotating it. Use a flathead screwdriver only to help separate lightly—don’t gouge.
• If the rotor won’t come off: the parking brake shoes may be grabbing the inside of the rotor hat; make sure the parking brake is fully OFF.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe with shop rags.
• Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner and shop rags (removes shipping oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• Hold rotor with one lug nut hand-tight.

Step 7: Reinstall bracket and hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket and start bolts by hand.
• Tighten bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Caliper bracket bolts: Torque to 169 N·m (125 ft-lbs)
• Install new pad clips into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease where the pad ears contact the clips (metal-to-metal only).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) so fluid can rise more easily.
• Use a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) to push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Tool definition: A piston compressor is a tool that presses the piston back so thicker new pads fit.
• Watch the reservoir while compressing; remove a little fluid if it looks like it will overflow.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Install and tighten the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Caliper slide pin bolts: Torque to 35 N·m (26 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–9 on the opposite rear side.
• Always replace pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Wheel lug nuts: Torque to 176 N·m (130 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Test at low speed first, then do a careful road test.
• Pad bedding (recommended): do 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.
• Recheck for any leaks, odd noises, or a soft pedal.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.