🔧 Malibu - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swapping the rear brake pads, and replacing the rotors. New rotors give the pads a flat, clean surface so you don’t get vibration, noise, or weak braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Rear disc brakes; steps include EPB and non-EPB paths.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔥 Brakes get extremely hot; let everything cool before touching.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
• ⚡ If your Malibu has an electronic parking brake (EPB), put it in service mode before compressing the caliper piston, or you can damage the EPB actuator.
• 🔑 Keep the key fob away from the car during the job so the EPB can’t auto-apply.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torx T30 bit
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat trim tool
• Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Small wire pick
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Impact driver (handheld) (specialty)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Turkey baster
• Scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin boots (if damaged) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the ignition off, and chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake before lifting the rear. (Rotors won’t come off if it’s applied.)
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. If it’s very full, remove a little with a turkey baster so it doesn’t overflow when you compress the pistons.
• If equipped with EPB: use a scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) to retract the rear parking brake motors before you push the pistons in. (Service mode retracts the electric motor.)

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Put the EPB in service mode (if equipped)

• If your Malibu has an EPB switch, connect a scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) and command Rear EPB Service Mode / Retract.
• If your Malibu does NOT have EPB (manual parking brake), skip this step.
• Do not compress piston until EPB is retracted.

Step 2: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

• Crack the rear lug nuts loose using a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar (about 1/2 turn).
• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give the car a gentle shake test.
• Remove the wheels with a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel straight and look behind the rear caliper to find the two slide pin bolts.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord. (Never let it dangle by the hose.)

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) using a small wire pick or flat trim tool.
• Clean the bracket pad “lands” (where clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside and keep track of the slide pins/boots.

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• If there is a rotor retaining screw, remove it using a Torx T30 bit and impact driver (handheld) (specialty).
• Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat with a hammer (16 oz) to break rust loose.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits perfectly flat.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop towels (removes shipping oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If equipped, reinstall the retaining screw using a Torx T30 bit and 3/8" drive ratchet: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket with new hardware

• Install new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket (snap them in place).
• Reinstall the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Service the slide pins (prevents uneven pad wear)

• Pull each slide pin out, wipe it clean with shop towels, and inspect the rubber boots.
• Apply a thin coat of brake lubricant (silicone-based) to the smooth part of the pins (not the threads), then reinstall.
• Only a thin film—don’t pack it.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, double-check the brake fluid reservoir won’t overflow.
• Compress the rear caliper piston using a brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty) until it’s fully seated.
• If you have EPB and did NOT retract it first, stop—go back to Step 1.

Step 11: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Apply a tiny amount of brake lubricant (silicone-based) to pad ears (where they slide on clips). Keep lube off pad friction material and rotor face.
• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Take the EPB out of service mode (if equipped)

• Use the scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) to command EPB Apply/Exit Service Mode.
• Confirm the EPB applies and releases normally.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm. (This seats the pistons against the new pads.)
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Do a slow test in a safe area: verify normal braking, no pulling, no grinding.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: do 6-10 medium stops from ~40 mph to ~10 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• If the brake pedal is still soft after pumping, inspect for leaks and consider a brake bleed (fluid/air issue).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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