🔧 Miata - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads and rear rotors, then reinstalling everything with the correct torque and brake pedal feel. On your Miata, the rear caliper piston must be turned while being pushed in, because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧯 Brakes get hot—work only when the brakes are fully cool.
• 😷 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🧷 Keep the parking brake released while working on the rear brakes.
• 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• 14mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver #3
• Caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake lubricant (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake hardware kit (rear) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and release the parking brake.
• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap by hand (don’t remove fluid yet). Watch fluid level during piston push-in.
• Quick vocab: the caliper bracket is the metal “carrier” the pads sit in.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the approved rear jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the rear pinch weld points and lower the car onto them.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (one side at a time)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself space to work; access the rear caliper from behind the wheel hub.
• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord from the suspension spring.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the caliper bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket with a flathead screwdriver.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rear rotor

• If equipped with rotor retaining screws, remove them using a Phillips screwdriver #3.
• Pull the rotor off. If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner spray, then wipe with shop towels. A clean hub prevents brake shake.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels to remove shipping oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If your rotor uses retaining screws, reinstall using a Phillips screwdriver #3 (snug only; do not over-tighten).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
• Install the new pad clips from the brake hardware kit (rear) into the bracket by hand; seat them fully.
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (silicone-based) where the pad “ears” slide on the clips.

Step 8: Compress (wind back) the rear caliper piston

• Remove the caliper from the bungee so you can access the piston face.
• Use a caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to push and rotate the piston in at the same time until it bottoms out.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while you do this; if it gets too high, soak a little out with shop towels (do not spill on paint).
• Quick vocab: a “wind-back” tool turns the piston while pressing it inward.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand (inner/outer as supplied).
• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet while holding the slide pin with a 14mm wrench if it tries to spin.
• Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2 through 9 on the opposite side using the same tools and torque specs.
• Always replace pads and rotors as a pair.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall both rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20-200 Nm range): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Re-apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.
• Do a low-speed test in a safe area: confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): perform 6-10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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