🔧 RX - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear calipers, replace the brake pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. New rotors are recommended with new pads so the pads can bed-in evenly and you don’t get vibration or noise.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the RX with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before rotor removal (rear parking brake shoes can trap the rotor).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad friction surfaces and rotor faces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Caliper hanger hook
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and put the shifter in Park.
• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors may not come off if it’s applied).
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear at the approved rear jacking point using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the RX down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed under solid rear support points.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and slide them under the rocker area as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side of the caliper.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a caliper hanger hook (this prevents hose damage).
• Torque spec (reassembly): Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.
• Clean metal helps prevent pad sticking.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket (the pad holder)

• Remove the two larger bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• Torque spec (reassembly): Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• Spray the hub/rotor center area with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat area with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it—use a flathead screwdriver through the access hole (if present) to back off the star-wheel adjuster a few clicks, then try again.
• Tap evenly—don’t hit wheel studs.

Step 7: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner so the rotor sits flat.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (not the rotor face).
• Install the new rotor. If it feels tight due to parking brake shoes, verify the parking brake is released and the adjuster is backed off enough.

Step 8: Service the slide pins and reinstall the caliper bracket

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (they are the smooth pins the caliper glides on).
• Wipe old grease off with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease.
• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque spec: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver only if needed).
• Apply a light smear of high-temperature silicone brake grease where the pad ears contact the clips (not on pad friction material).
• Slide the new pads into place.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

• Place an old pad against the caliper piston, then compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp brake piston compressor.
• Compress until the caliper fits over the thicker new pads.
• Reinstall the caliper over the pads and install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque spec: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
• Go slow—fast compression can overflow fluid.

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–10 for the other rear brake.
• Use the same tools and torque specs on both sides.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the RX until the tires just touch the ground and won’t spin.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque spec: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• Test at low speed first: verify normal stopping and no pulling or grinding.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 8–10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing short cool-down time between stops; avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
• Recheck for leaks, abnormal smells, or unusual noises after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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