🔧 Optima - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear calipers, replacing the brake pads, and swapping the rear rotors, then reassembling and checking everything for safe braking. The key is supporting the caliper correctly, compressing the piston the right way, and torquing all fasteners to spec.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• Never rely on a jack alone—support the rear with jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air, to clean parts.
• If your Optima has an electronic parking brake (EPB), you must put it in service mode before pushing the rear pistons in.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Flat trim tool
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool
• Brake caliper wind-back tool (specialty)
• Phillips screwdriver #3
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin boots (if torn) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temp brake grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
• Rotor retaining screws (if equipped) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Set the steering wheel straight, park on level ground, and chock both front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is released before lifting the rear.
• If your Optima has an EPB (parking brake button), plan to put the EPB into service mode before compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm your parking brake type (important)

• Look at the center console area.
• If you have a P button/switch: that’s Electronic Parking Brake (EPB).
• If you have a foot pedal or hand lever: that’s a manual parking brake.

Step 2: Put the parking brake in the correct mode

• If EPB: Use a capable scan tool and run EPB Maintenance Mode / Pad Replacement Mode. This retracts the parking brake motor so you don’t damage it.
• If manual parking brake: Ensure the parking brake is fully released.
• Don’t push pistons in until this is done.

Step 3: Lift and support the rear

• Use a breaker bar and 21mm socket to slightly loosen the rear wheel lug nuts (about 1/2 turn).
• Lift the rear with a floor jack, then set the car onto jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (do not hang it)

• Turn the steering wheel as needed for access and locate the rear caliper.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Torque spec (install later): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove pads and caliper bracket

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the bracket.
• Torque spec (install later): Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it with a Phillips screwdriver #3.
• Pull the rotor off. If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor braking surfaces with brake parts cleaner to remove protective oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub. Reinstall the retaining screw (if equipped) using the Phillips screwdriver #3.

Step 8: Service the bracket and install new hardware

• Remove the old pad abutment clips from the bracket using a flat trim tool.
• Clean the clip lands (where clips sit) with a wire brush.
• Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit.
• Apply a thin film of high-temp brake grease to the clip contact points where the pad “ears” slide (not on rotor/pad friction).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket and hand-start the bolts.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and then a torque wrench.
• Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs)
• A torque wrench ensures correct clamping force.

Step 10: Compress the rear caliper piston (critical)

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood to allow fluid to move back (place a rag around it).
• If EPB: Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston straight in.
• If manual parking brake integrated into caliper: Use a brake caliper wind-back tool (specialty) to turn-and-press the piston inward (this tool rotates while pushing).
• Watch the reservoir fluid level so it doesn’t overflow; siphon a little if needed (do not spill on paint).

Step 11: Install new pads and refit the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Apply a small amount of high-temp brake grease to pad backing plate contact points where they touch the caliper/bracket (not on friction material).
• Slide the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket, then torque with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 21mm socket.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Bring EPB back out of service mode (if equipped)

• If EPB: Use the scan tool to run EPB Close / Apply and exit maintenance mode.

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✅ After Repair

• Before starting the car, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake to confirm correct operation.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): do 6-8 moderate stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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