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2016 Chevrolet Suburban
2015 - 2020 Chevrolet Suburban
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2016 Chevy Suburban Rear Brake Pads and Rotors

2016 Chevy Suburban Rear Brake Pads and Rotors

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
22mm
22mm
Socket
or (7/8")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2015-2020 Chevrolet Suburban (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2015-2020 Chevrolet Suburban (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Suburban - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This job replaces your A4’s rear brake pads and rotors so braking stays smooth, quiet, and strong. You’ll remove the caliper, swap the pads, replace the rotor, then compress the caliper piston and reassemble with correct torque.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the Suburban with jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear rotors (the parking brake shoes sit inside the rotor “hat”).
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air, and wear a mask.
  • ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; wipe spills immediately.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug nut socket 22mm
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (30-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (metric)
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Caliper slide pin tool (socket/wrench as equipped)
  • Caliper bracket bolt socket (as equipped)
  • C-clamp 6"
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Rubber mallet
  • Wire brush
  • Bungee cord
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Catch pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake lubricant (pad backing/abutments) - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the front wheels.
  • 🛑 Make sure the parking brake is fully released before starting.
  • 🧼 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; check it isn’t overfull (fluid may rise when you compress pistons).
  • 🧰 Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

  • Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jack point.
  • Set the frame onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
  • Remove the rear wheels using a 22mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (outer piece)

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear; position yourself for access.
  • Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using the correct caliper slide pin tool (socket/wrench as equipped).
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket. Support it with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.
  • Tip: Hanging by the hose can damage it.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad “rails” with brake cleaner spray and a wire brush until smooth.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the caliper bracket bolts using the correct caliper bracket bolt socket (as equipped) and a breaker bar 1/2".
  • Remove the bracket and set it aside.

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

  • Slide the rotor off the hub by hand.
  • If it’s stuck, spray the hub/rotor center with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat evenly using a rubber mallet.
  • If it still won’t come off, double-check the parking brake is released (the parking brake shoes can hold the rotor).

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean rust from the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
  • Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove packing oil.
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the bracket and torque bolts

  • Reinstall the caliper bracket and start bolts by hand.
  • Tighten using a ratchet 3/8" and then torque with a torque wrench 1/2".
  • Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper bracket bolts.

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install the new abutment clips from the hardware kit.
  • Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (pad backing/abutments) where pads slide on the clips (not on the pad friction material).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood so it won’t overflow.
  • Use a C-clamp 6" to slowly press the caliper piston back in (a C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston in evenly).
  • Go slowly and keep the piston straight so the boot doesn’t twist.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper and torque slide pins

  • Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) to the slide pins if they’re removable/cleanable.
  • Set the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install and tighten the slide pin bolts using the correct caliper slide pin tool (socket/wrench as equipped).
  • Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide pin bolts.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the Suburban to the ground with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2".
  • Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts.

Step 12: Restore pedal feel

  • With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3) if needed.

✅ After Repair

  • 🧪 Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal for 15 seconds; it should not sink.
  • 🔎 Test at low speed first; confirm no grinding, pulling, or pulsation.
  • 🛑 Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 8–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
  • 👃 A light smell is normal during bed-in; smoke is not—stop and recheck work.
  • 🔁 Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 miles with a torque wrench 1/2".

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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