🔧 Tundra - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swapping the rear brake pads and rotors, then reassembling everything with the correct torque and a proper pedal pump-up. On your Tundra, the parking brake is a small drum brake inside the “hat” of the rear rotor, so the parking brake must be released during rotor removal/installation.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Factory rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks so the truck can’t roll.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before you touch the calipers/rotors.
• 🧪 Don’t breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a dust mask.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (parking brake shoes grip the rotor hat).
• 🧴 Watch the brake fluid level while compressing pistons—overflow can damage paint.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Short extension (3")
• C-clamp (6")
• Large flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Dead-blow hammer
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pieces, 25-40mm long)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake parts cleaner
• Disposable nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• Rear brake hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle (top-off only if needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and turn the engine off.
• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released (important for rotor removal).
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose about 1/4 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; don’t remove the cap unless needed to prevent overflow.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear differential.
• Set the frame onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) on both sides.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not hang it by the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; access is straight-on at the rear.
• Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so the brake hose isn’t stretched.
• A “caliper” clamps the pads onto the rotor.

Step 3: Remove pads and hardware

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand (use a large flathead screwdriver gently if stuck).
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket using needle-nose pliers.
• Clean the bracket pad contact points using brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet.
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and back off parking brake if needed)

• Try pulling the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with a dead-blow hammer.
• If still stuck, thread in two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s jacking holes and tighten evenly with a ratchet to “push” the rotor off.
• If the rotor won’t come off because the parking brake shoes are holding it, back off the parking brake adjuster:
  • Use a large flathead screwdriver through the access slot (behind/at the rotor backing plate area) and turn the star wheel to retract the shoes.
  • The “star wheel” is the toothed adjuster for the parking brake shoes.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If the rotor is loose/wobbly, hold it in place temporarily by reinstalling 1-2 lug nuts finger-tight using a 21mm socket.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Service slide pins and install new pad hardware

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe them clean with a rag (use brake parts cleaner if needed).
• Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease and reinstall the pins.
• Slide pins let the caliper move smoothly.
• Install the new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket (use needle-nose pliers if needed).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face (hand-held is fine).
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while compressing.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 10: Install new brake pads and reinstall caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Reinstall the caliper over the pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–10 on the opposite rear side.
• Always do brakes in pairs.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid only if needed.
• Test at low speed first. Verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Set and release the parking brake a few times to help the parking brake shoes self-center.
• Pad bed-in (safe road): make 8–10 moderate stops from ~30–5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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