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2014 GMC Sierra 1500
2014 GMC Sierra 1500
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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500

Step-by-step DIY guide with drum-in-hat parking brake tips, tools, parts, and torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500

Step-by-step DIY guide with drum-in-hat parking brake tips, tools, parts, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 Sierra 1500 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swap the rear brake pads, and replace the rear rotors. On your Sierra 1500, the parking brake uses small “drum-in-hat” shoes inside the rotor, so rotor removal sometimes requires backing off the parking brake adjustment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground; chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (rotors won’t come off if it’s set).
  • ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands under the frame—never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb)
  • 22mm socket
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Ratchet (1/2")
  • 13mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • C-clamp (6-inch)
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Hammer (16 oz)
  • Wire brush
  • Bungee cord
  • Micrometer or vernier caliper (measuring tool)
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts (30-40mm long)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2
  • High-temp anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🧰 Park on a flat surface, shift to Park, and turn the engine off.
  • 🧰 Release the parking brake fully.
  • 🧰 Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • 🧰 Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting (don’t remove yet).
  • 🧰 Pop the hood and check the brake fluid level; it may rise when you compress the caliper piston.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

  • Place wheel chocks at the front tires.
  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear of your Sierra 1500 at the rear differential.
  • Set jack stands under the frame rails and lower the truck onto the stands.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

  • Remove lug nuts using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not stretch the hose)

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just access the caliper.
  • Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook or bungee cord.
  • Caliper hanger = a hook to support caliper.

Step 4: Remove the old brake pads and inspect

  • Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Check pad wear and look for uneven wear (often means sticky slide pins).

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and ratchet (1/2") (a breaker bar helps).
  • Set the bracket aside.

Step 6: Remove the rotor (parking brake is inside the rotor)

  • If the rotor is rust-stuck, spray around the hub/center with brake cleaner using brake parts cleaner and scrub with a wire brush.
  • Thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts evenly into the rotor “jacking” holes and tighten them alternately with a ratchet until the rotor pushes off the hub.
  • If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be hanging up:
    • Use a flathead screwdriver through the access slot (backing plate/rotor hat area) to back off the star-wheel adjuster a few clicks.
  • Tap the rotor hat lightly with a hammer (16 oz) if needed (don’t hit wheel studs).

Step 7: Inspect the parking brake shoes (quick check)

  • With the rotor off, inspect the small parking brake shoes for lining separation or heavy cracking.
  • Clean loose dust using brake parts cleaner (don’t blow with air).

Step 8: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
  • Apply a very thin film of high-temp anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the wheel studs and braking surfaces).
  • Install the new rotor. If it keeps wobbling, hand-thread one lug nut to hold it in place (use the 22mm socket).

Step 9: Service the bracket hardware and slide pins

  • Remove old pad clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad lands with a wire brush, then install the new clips from the rear brake hardware kit.
  • Pull the slide pins out, wipe clean, apply brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone), and reinstall them.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Position the bracket and start bolts by hand.
  • Tighten bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and torque wrench (ft-lb).
  • Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston

  • Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
  • Use a C-clamp (6-inch) to slowly push the caliper piston back in until it bottoms out.
  • Go slow to avoid damaging the seal.

Step 12: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

  • Install the new pads into the bracket (inner/outer as designed).
  • Set the caliper over the pads and align the slide pin bolt holes.
  • Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench (ft-lb).
  • Torque to 43 Nm (32 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Repeat on the other side

  • Repeat Steps 3–12 for the other rear wheel.

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Install wheels and hand-start all lug nuts.
  • Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (ft-lb) and 22mm socket.
  • Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times before driving until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
  • ✅ Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed (don’t overfill).
  • ✅ Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
  • ✅ Bedding-in (recommended): make 8–10 gentle stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
  • ✅ Listen for scraping that could indicate the parking brake shoes are rubbing inside the rotor hat.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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