🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new pads. This restores braking power and fixes grinding/pulsation caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands before working under/around the wheels.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ If your Highlander has an electronic parking brake (EPB), do not work until EPB service mode is set.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for the mechanical (foot pedal) parking brake version.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lb range)
• C-clamp brake caliper compressor
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Bungee cord
• 8mm x 1.25 bolts (pair, for rotor removal)
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake before lifting the rear (important for rotor removal).
• Loosen rear lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before the tires are off the ground.
• If your Highlander has an EPB button (not a foot pedal), tell me and I’ll give you the correct EPB service-mode steps before you continue.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear and place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under proper lift points.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not let it hang)

• Turn the steering wheel straight and look at the rear caliper and bracket.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord (never hang it by the brake hose).

Step 3: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

• Pull the pads out of the bracket. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 4: Remove the rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, thread the 8mm x 1.25 bolts (pair, for rotor removal) into the rotor’s jacking holes and tighten evenly with a ratchet until the rotor “walks” off.
• If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust free.
• If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be dragging—double-check the parking brake is fully released.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Open the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (just loosen it).
• Use a C-clamp brake caliper compressor to slowly push the caliper piston back in (this tool presses the piston in evenly).
• Watch the brake fluid level—if it rises near “MAX,” remove a little so it doesn’t overflow.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 6: Clean and prep the bracket and hub

• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner spray.
• Clean the wheel hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the wheel studs and rotor braking surfaces).

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray to remove shipping oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• To hold it tight while you work, thread on one lug nut by hand (use your wheel’s lug nut) and snug it lightly with a 21mm socket.

Step 8: Reinstall the bracket and install new hardware + pads

• Reinstall the caliper bracket and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lb)
• Install the new hardware clips (from the hardware kit) into the bracket.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease where the pad ears touch the clips (not on the pad friction material).
• Install the new pads in the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pin bolt holes.
• Install and tighten the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lb)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower your Highlander to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lb)

Step 11: Restore pedal feel

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start your Highlander and do a slow test in a safe area: confirm normal braking and no pulling/noise.
• Perform pad bedding (break-in): make 8–10 medium stops from ~30–35 mph to ~5 mph, with light driving in between to cool.
• Recheck for leaks, and confirm the brake fluid level is between MIN and MAX.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.