🔧 Forester - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear brake calipers and brackets, swap the pads and rotors, then reassemble with the correct torque. This restores safe stopping power and prevents grinding, vibration, and uneven wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: your Forester has rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground; use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (the parking brake shoes can hold the rotor).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a strap.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6-inch minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (25–40mm long)
• Brake cleaner
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and chock both front wheels.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Lift the rear and support the pinch welds or rear jack points with jack stands.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors won’t come off with it applied).
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps the pistons push back easier.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Use a 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts, then remove both rear wheels.
• Doing both sides helps you compare parts.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not disconnect the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel straight and look at the rear caliper bolts (the smaller bolts on the back of the caliper).
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the pads and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord.
• Torque spec on install: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket using needle-nose pliers.
• Use brake cleaner and shop rags to clean the bracket contact areas.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Torque spec on install: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

• If the rotor is loose, pull it straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust free.
• If still stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s jacking holes evenly, alternating turns until the rotor pushes off.
• Turn each bolt a little at a time.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Wipe clean with brake cleaner and shop rags.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid wheel studs).
• Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner.
• Install the new rotor and hold it in place with one lug nut hand-tight using a 19mm socket.

Step 7: Reinstall the bracket with new hardware

• Install new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket.
• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6-inch minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper. (A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses parts together evenly.)
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid level under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
• Slow pressure prevents seal damage.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Apply a light coat of high-temp silicone brake grease to pad ears (where pads slide in the clips) and pad backing plates (where they touch the caliper/bracket). Do not grease the friction material.
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the Forester to the ground.
• Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Re-apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.
• Test drive at low speed first; verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (break-in): make 6–10 medium stops from 35 mph to 5 mph, with 30–60 seconds between stops; avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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