🔧 Forester - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swap the rear brake pads, and replace the rear rotors. On your Forester, the parking brake is a small drum brake inside the rear rotor “hat,” so the parking brake can affect rotor removal and adjustment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and don’t use compressed air.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pads and rotor friction surfaces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (about 30–40mm long)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drip pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (for pad backing/abutment points) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the transmission to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check brake fluid level; it may rise when you compress the caliper piston.
• C-clamp compresses the caliper piston slowly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the center rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) placed under the rear pinch welds or rear support points.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet (3/8" or 1/2").

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (leave the hose connected)

• Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8" or 1/2").
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a caliper hanger hook (specialty) (this prevents stress on the brake hose).

Step 3: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner spray.
• Clean metal helps pads slide quietly.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket, breaker bar (1/2"), and ratchet (3/8" or 1/2").
• Set the bracket aside in a safe spot.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rear rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat (the center “drum” area) with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If it still won’t come off, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts (about 30–40mm long) into the rotor’s jacking holes and tighten evenly with a ratchet (3/8" or 1/2") until the rotor pushes free.
• If it’s stuck due to the parking brake shoes, access the star-wheel adjuster through the rubber plug hole and back it off using a flathead screwdriver.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid the wheel studs).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If the rotor feels tight going on, confirm the parking brake is fully released and the adjuster is not expanded.

Step 7: Service the slide pins (recommended)

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off and apply fresh brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
• Make sure the rubber boots seat fully around the pins.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new pad hardware

• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet (3/8" or 1/2").
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range).
• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant (for pad backing/abutment points) where pads contact the clips (not on the pad friction material).

Step 9: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you compress; remove excess fluid if it approaches the MAX line using the drip pan for safety.
• Compress slowly to avoid damaging seals.

Step 10: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8" or 1/2").
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range).

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–10 on the opposite rear side.
• Keep parts side-by-side so nothing gets mixed up.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet (3/8" or 1/2").
• Lower the Forester off the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Final-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range).

Step 13: Adjust and verify the parking brake (if needed)

• If the parking brake travel feels too high/low after rotor replacement, adjust the star wheel through the access hole using a flathead screwdriver.
• Adjust until there is a very light drag, then back off slightly so the rotor spins freely.

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm before driving.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 50–60 km/h down to 10 km/h, letting brakes cool 30–60 seconds between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 km: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹8,000-₹18,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹4,500-₹12,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹3,500-₹6,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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