🔧 Encore - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake caliper and bracket, replace the rotor, then install new pads and reassemble everything. On your Encore, the rear caliper piston must be rotated while being pushed in, so the correct tool matters.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours

Assumption: stock rear disc brakes with screw-in caliper pistons.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the Encore on jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released during the job, or the rotor may not come off.
• ⚠️ Don’t inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint—wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ If you disconnect nothing electrical, a battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torx T30 bit
• Flathead screwdriver
• Caliper piston rewind tool (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Threadlocker (medium strength)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the rear lift points.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Inspect and prep the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed (rear), but position yourself for a clear view.
• Locate the rear caliper, pads, and rotor.
• Use brake parts cleaner to wash off dust from the caliper/bracket area. Let it drip—don’t wipe dust dry.

Step 3: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook (this prevents strain on the brake hose).

Step 4: Remove the old brake pads

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• If they’re stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• During reassembly: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) and apply threadlocker (medium strength) to clean bolt threads.

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• If equipped with a rotor retaining screw, remove it using a Torx T30 bit.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub center with brake parts cleaner, then tap the rotor hat area (not the edge) while pulling—use controlled force with the breaker bar handle as a persuader.
• Clean the hub face using a wire brush until it’s smooth. A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner (removes protective oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If you removed a retaining screw, reinstall it with a Torx T30 bit and snug it (do not overtighten).

Step 8: Service the caliper bracket and hardware

• Remove old pad clips from the bracket (if present) using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
• Install the new hardware clips from the kit.
• Apply a thin layer of high-temp silicone brake grease where pads slide in the clips (do not get grease on rotor or pad friction material).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten using an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Compress (rewind) the rear caliper piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood by hand (this helps the fluid move back).
• Use a caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) to push and rotate the piston clockwise until it seats fully.
• A “rewind tool” is a tool that presses the piston in while turning it, needed for screw-type rear pistons.
• Watch the brake fluid level; if it rises near the top, remove a little fluid (do not overflow).

Step 11: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• If your inner pad has a wear indicator, match it to the original orientation.
• Apply a small amount of high-temp silicone brake grease to pad backing plate contact points (where the caliper touches), not on the friction surface.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pin holes.
• Install slide pin bolts by hand, then tighten using a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
• Make sure the rubber slide pin boots are not twisted.

Step 13: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 12 on the other rear wheel.
• Replace pads and rotors in pairs (left and right) for even braking.

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the Encore to the ground using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times before driving until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• ✅ Test at low speed first; confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• ✅ Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6-10 smooth stops from 30→5 mph with light-to-medium pressure, allowing short cool-down between stops. Avoid hard stops for 200 miles.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$480 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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