🔧 Civic - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reinstall everything with the correct torque. On your Civic, the rear caliper piston must be pushed in while rotating because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface; support the car on jack stands—never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake fully before starting, or the rear calipers/rotors won’t come off correctly.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber hose; support it with a hook or bungee cord.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages paint quickly.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks (pair)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20–150 ft-lb range)
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• Wire brush
• Brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Impact screwdriver with Phillips bit (specialty)
• Bungee cord or mechanics hook
• Catch pan

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 (Replace in pairs)
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (Replace both rears)
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lube) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
• Rear rotor retaining screws (if equipped) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake lever fully.
• Loosen rear lug nuts slightly (do not remove) using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s very full, remove a little fluid into a catch pan using a clean tool so it won’t overflow when pistons are pushed back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands placed under the rear support points.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Remove the rear brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear work; just make sure you have room.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord or mechanics hook so the hose is not strained.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Remove the inner and outer brake pads by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck).
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the pad “lands” (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
• Clean metal helps pads slide smoothly.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket on a clean surface.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lb).

Step 6: Remove the old rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using an impact screwdriver with Phillips bit (specialty).
• Pull the rotor off the hub. If stuck, tap the rotor hat area evenly (not the braking surface) using the handle end of a tool, and wiggle it off.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Spray the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and wipe it clean (removes protective oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If equipped, install new retaining screws using the impact screwdriver with Phillips bit (specialty) (snug only).

Step 8: Service and lubricate the slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe them clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease.
• Reinsert the pins and make sure they move smoothly.
• Only use brake-safe silicone grease.

Step 9: Reinstall the bracket and new hardware

• Reinstall the bracket over the rotor using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lb).
• Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver to fully seat them if needed).

Step 10: Compress (wind back) the rear caliper piston

• This piston must be pushed in while turning. A brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) is a tool that rotates the piston as it presses it inward.
• Make sure the brake fluid reservoir doesn’t overflow while you do this.
• Use the brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate and press the piston back until it bottoms out.
• If the piston will not turn, re-check that the parking brake is fully released.

Step 11: Install the new pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to pad contact points where they slide in the clips (not on the friction material).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lb).
• Repeat Steps 3–12 on the other rear side.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lb).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level in the reservoir and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Test the parking brake: pull the lever and confirm it holds the car.
• Do a careful test drive at low speed. Confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Brake pad bed-in (recommended): make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, with cool-down time between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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