🔧 Journey - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new brake pads. New rotors help prevent shaking, noise, and uneven braking that can happen when old rotors are worn or rusty.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: your Journey has rear disc brakes with a drum-in-hat parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface; never rely on a jack alone—use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (the parking brake shoes can lock the rotor on).
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks at both front wheels.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; when you compress caliper pistons, the fluid level can rise. If it’s very full, remove a little with care to prevent overflow.
• C-clamp = a screw tool that pushes the piston back in.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point/subframe area.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed under solid rear support points.
• Remove both rear wheels with a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering is not needed at the rear; position yourself for access.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and inspect slide pins

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck).
• Pull the slide pins out, wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease).
• Reinstall the slide pins so they move smoothly by hand.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• On reassembly: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and free it if the parking brake is holding)

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If it’s stuck from rust, tap around the rotor “hat” area with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be tight inside the rotor:
  • Use a flathead screwdriver through the access slot (if present) to back off the star wheel adjuster a few clicks.
  • Then tap again with the rubber mallet and remove the rotor.

Step 6: Clean and prep the hub surface

• Clean the hub face using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray.
• Apply a very light film of brake anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid wheel studs and braking surfaces).
• A clean hub helps prevent rotor wobble.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Spray the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• To keep it from flopping while you work, thread on one lug nut by hand (use the 21mm socket lightly to snug, not tight).

Step 8: Install new bracket hardware and pads

• Remove old abutment clips from the bracket and install the new ones from the rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips).
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) to the pad contact points on the clips (where the pad “ears” slide).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten using an 18mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until it bottoms out.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir level while compressing.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads and align it with the slide pin bolt holes.
• Install and tighten the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2 through 11 on the other side.
• Do one side at a time to avoid mix-ups.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3) if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times, then make sure the rear wheels rotate freely when released.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in (break-in): make 6-10 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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