🔧 F-350 Super Duty - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This job replaces the rear brake pads and rotors, which restore stopping power and fix pulsation, grinding, or thin pads. On your F-350 Super Duty, the rear brakes are disc brakes, and the parking brake is a separate “drum-in-hat” system inside the rotor, so rotor removal may require backing off the parking brake adjuster.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• Release the parking brake fully before starting; the rotor can be locked to the parking brake shoes.
• Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner and let parts dry.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6-inch) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake spoon (specialty)
• Dead-blow hammer
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Drain pan
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake caliper hardware kit (clips/pins as equipped) - Qty: 1
• High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake fully.
• Chock both front wheels securely.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 21mm socket and breaker bar).
• Lift the rear axle and place the frame/axle securely on jack stands.
• Tip: Do one side at a time for reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: Rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake (common on your F-350). If your rotor will not slide off, follow the parking-brake-adjuster steps below.

Step 1: Remove the rear wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not disconnect the hose)

• Turn the steering is not needed in the rear; position yourself for good access.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the pads and bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord or mechanics wire.
• Tip: Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad abutment clips (metal “rails” the pads slide on) using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• During reassembly, tighten bracket bolts to Torque to 224 Nm (165 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and back off the parking brake if needed)

• Try to pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat between wheel studs using a dead-blow hammer and pull again.
• If the rotor won’t come off because the parking brake is holding it:
• Locate the oval rubber access plug on the backing plate (behind the rotor) and remove it using a flathead screwdriver.
• Insert a brake spoon (specialty) (a small curved adjusting tool) and rotate the star wheel to retract the parking brake shoes until the rotor frees up.
• Remove the rotor.

Step 6: Clean the hub face and prep the new rotor

• Clean the hub face (where the rotor sits) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
• Clean the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray and let it dry.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket and start bolts by hand.
• Tighten the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 224 Nm (165 ft-lbs).
• Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit by pressing them into the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad “ears” where they touch the clips (avoid the pad friction material).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) to prevent pressure buildup; keep it clean.
• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp (6-inch) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) until it bottoms out.
• Watch the reservoir level; if it gets too full, remove a little fluid into a drain pan (do not spill on paint).

Step 9: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Tighten the slide pin bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 1 through 9 on the other rear wheel.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the truck until the tires touch the ground enough to prevent spinning.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 224 Nm (165 ft-lbs).
• Fully lower the truck and remove the jack stands and wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times; confirm the truck holds on a slight incline.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad break-in (bedding): make 6-10 gentle stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, allowing a little cooling between stops; avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.