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2014 Subaru Outback
2010 - 2014 Subaru Outback
2.5i
Compatible with more variants.
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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2010-2014 Subaru Outback

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2010-2014 Subaru Outback

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback (DIY Guide) (Trim: 2.5i)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, parking brake adjustment, and key torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2010-2014 Subaru Outback (DIY Guide) (Trim: 2.5i)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, parking brake adjustment, and key torque specs for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear calipers, swapping the pads and rotors, then setting the parking brake shoe clearance inside the rotor “hat.” On your Outback, the parking brake is a separate drum-style brake inside the rear rotor, so correct adjustment matters for a solid handbrake.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands (never rely on a jack alone).
  • 🧤 Brake dust is unhealthy—wear nitrile gloves and a dust mask, and use brake cleaner (don’t blow dust with compressed air).
  • 🔥 Brakes can be very hot—let everything cool before starting.
  • 🧱 Keep the parking brake fully released during the job (the parking brake shoes are inside the rotor).
  • 🔒 If you open the brake fluid reservoir, keep it clean and don’t spill fluid on paint.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
  • Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-150 ft-lbs range)
  • 19mm socket (1/2" drive)
  • 14mm socket (3/8" drive)
  • 17mm socket (1/2" drive)
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • Ratchet (1/2" drive)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor
  • Wire brush
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, for rotor removal)
  • Bungee cord
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake lubricant (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 bottle

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
  • Fully release the parking brake.
  • Crack the rear lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting the car.
  • Open the hood and check brake fluid level in the reservoir. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a clean syringe/turkey baster (not a shop rag).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the correct jacking point, then support with jack stands.
  • Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed on the rear; just give yourself space to work.
  • Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a brake caliper hanger hook (this prevents stretching the brake hose).

Step 3: Remove old pads and inspect the hardware

  • Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Remove the pad clips/shims (hardware) from the bracket.
  • Clean the bracket pad “rails” with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket, 1/2" ratchet, and breaker bar if needed.
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • During reassembly: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • If the rotor is stuck, thread the M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s extraction holes evenly (a few turns each) until the rotor pops free.
  • If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
  • Remove the rotor.

Step 6: Clean the hub and prep for the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush (rust here can cause brake vibration).
  • Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (keep it off wheel studs and braking surfaces).
  • Clean the new rotor’s braking surfaces with brake cleaner to remove packing oil.

Step 7: Install the new rotor and set parking brake shoe clearance

  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.
  • Through the access slot/hole (depending on rotor/backing plate opening), adjust the star wheel using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Adjust until the rotor just starts to drag, then back off slightly until it spins freely with a faint, even whisper of contact.
  • Too tight = hot brakes and poor MPG.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.
  • Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place an old pad against the piston face, then compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor.
  • Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 10: Install new pad hardware and pads

  • Install the new pad clips/shims onto the bracket.
  • Apply a light coat of brake lubricant (silicone-based) where the pad ears slide on the clips (not on the pad friction material).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
  • Apply and release the parking brake several times, then confirm it holds the car on a slight incline.
  • Bed-in (break-in) the pads: do 6-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, with cooldown time between stops.
  • Recheck for unusual noises and verify no pulling or vibration on a test drive.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.0 hours.


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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Subaru vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2014 Subaru Outback2.5i--
2014 Subaru Outback2.5i Limited--
2014 Subaru Outback2.5i Premium--
2013 Subaru Outback2.5i--
2013 Subaru Outback2.5i Limited--
2013 Subaru Outback2.5i Premium--
2012 Subaru Outback2.5i--
2012 Subaru Outback2.5i Limited--
2012 Subaru Outback2.5i Premium--
2011 Subaru Outback2.5i--
2011 Subaru Outback2.5i Limited--
2011 Subaru Outback2.5i Premium--
2010 Subaru Outback2.5i--
2010 Subaru Outback2.5i Limited--
2010 Subaru Outback2.5i Premium--
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