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2011 Ford F-150
2010 - 2011 Ford F-150
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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2009-2011 Ford F-150

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2009-2011 Ford F-150

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2010-2011 Ford F-150 (Parking Brake Adjust)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, and drum-in-hat parking brake adjustment tips

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2010-2011 Ford F-150 (Parking Brake Adjust)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, and drum-in-hat parking brake adjustment tips for 2010, 2011

Orion
Orion

🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then set the parking brake shoe adjustment (your F-150 uses a small “drum-in-hat” parking brake inside the rear rotor).

Doing this correctly restores braking power, prevents vibration, and avoids uneven pad wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • 🧱 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
  • 🔥 Brakes can be extremely hot; let everything cool before touching.
  • 🧴 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a dust mask.
  • 🧷 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a bungee cord.
  • 🔧 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces; clean with brake cleaner if contaminated.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range)
  • 13mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Pick tool
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
  • Rear parking brake hardware kit - Optional (recommended if springs are rusty) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake fully.
  • Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
  • Break the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (before lifting).
  • Open the hood and remove the brake master cylinder cap (leave it resting on top) so fluid can rise when compressing pistons.
  • Tip: Put rags under the reservoir in case of spill.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

  • Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle center.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) under the axle tubes and lower the truck onto them.
  • Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed (rear), just get good access and lighting.
  • Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it from the leaf spring/axle using a bungee cord.
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) when reinstalling caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Tip: If it’s tight, wiggle—don’t pry the hose.

Step 3: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

  • Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed.
  • Remove the caliper bracket (anchor) bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
  • Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) when reinstalling caliper bracket bolts.

Step 4: Remove the rear rotor (and back off the parking brake if stuck)

  • If the rotor pulls off, remove it by hand. If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor hat using a rubber mallet.
  • If the rotor will not come off, the parking brake shoes are likely holding it.
  • Remove the access plug on the backing plate using a pick tool.
  • Insert a flathead screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster and back the shoes off until the rotor frees up.
  • Remove the rotor and set it aside.

Step 5: Inspect and service the parking brake shoes (inside the rotor)

  • Inspect the parking brake shoes and hardware for broken springs, missing lining, or heavy rust.
  • Clean loose rust with a wire brush (don’t blow dust into the air).
  • If hardware is heavily corroded, replace it using a rear parking brake hardware kit.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
  • Spray the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil.
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Adjust the parking brake shoes to the new rotor

  • Through the backing plate access hole, turn the star-wheel with a flathead screwdriver until you feel a light, even drag when rotating the rotor by hand.
  • Back the adjuster off slightly until the rotor spins freely with just a faint rub.
  • Reinstall the access plug using your fingers (or a pick tool gently).
  • Tip: Too tight causes overheating and poor MPG.

Step 8: Install the bracket and new pads

  • Reinstall the caliper bracket using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range).
  • Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
  • Clean and lubricate the pad contact points (abutment areas) with high-temperature brake lubricant (a thin film only).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

  • Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • A piston compressor is a tool that pushes the piston straight back without cocking it.
  • Slide the caliper over the new pads and install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range).
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
  • Lower the truck off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range).
  • Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Restore pedal feel and fluid level

  • With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • Reinstall the brake master cylinder cap by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the truck and confirm the brake pedal stays firm.
  • Test the parking brake: set it, try to roll slowly, then release it.
  • Do a careful road test and listen for grinding or pulling.
  • Bed-in the pads (break-in): make 8–10 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
  • Recheck for brake fluid leaks around both rear calipers.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Ford vehicles

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2010 Ford F-150---
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