🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This job replaces the rear brake pads and rotors on your F-150 to restore safe stopping power and eliminate grinding, pulsation, or squealing from worn parts. You’ll remove the rear calipers, swap the rotors, install new pads/hardware, then torque everything correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands before working underneath.
• 🛑 Chock the front wheels and keep the transmission in Park.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 1.5"-2" long)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set (with hardware/clips) - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the truck.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps fluid move back when you compress the caliper piston.
• “Caliper bracket” = the heavy mount behind the caliper.
• “C-clamp” squeezes the piston back into the caliper.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the truck

• Use the floor jack to lift the rear axle (center section) high enough to remove both rear wheels.
• Place jack stands under the axle tubes (one per side) and lower the truck onto them.
• Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Use a lug wrench or 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts and wheels.
• Set the wheels aside flat so they can’t roll.

Step 3: Remove the rear brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not applicable here—just position yourself for access.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide/guide bolts.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper off the pads if it’s tight.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord or mechanics wire (do not hang it by the hose).

Step 4: Remove the brake pads and caliper bracket

• Remove the inner and outer pads from the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver if needed).
• Use an 18mm socket with a breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• Torque spec (reinstall later): Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) for the caliper bracket bolts.

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and deal with a stuck rotor)

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs.
• If the rotor is stuck to the hub, spray the center hub area with brake cleaner spray and scrub with a wire brush.
• If it’s still stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor “push-off” holes evenly and tighten them with a ratchet to press the rotor off.
• If the rotor won’t come off due to the parking brake (drum-in-hat), release the parking brake and tap the rotor hat lightly while pulling (use a pry bar carefully).
• If it fights you, the parking brake shoes may be rust-lipped.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the rotor sits flat.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the wheel studs and braking surfaces).
• Clean both sides of the new rotor using brake cleaner spray (removes protective oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the studs.

Step 7: Service the caliper bracket hardware

• Remove the old pad hardware/clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad contact areas with brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.
• Install the new hardware/clips from your pad kit.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears slide on the clips (keep grease off pad/rotor surfaces).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor.
• Install the bracket bolts by hand first, then tighten using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Position the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing—if it gets too full, remove a little fluid (don’t overflow).

Step 10: Install new brake pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Apply a small amount of brake caliper grease (silicone) to the caliper slide pin boots/areas if they are dry (do not grease the pad friction surface).
• Set the caliper over the pads and align the slide bolt holes.
• Install the slide/guide bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 10 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Do one side at a time to avoid mix-ups.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Install the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower to the ground.
• Torque the lug nuts to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Do a cautious test drive: verify no pulling, grinding, or abnormal noises.
• Bed-in the pads (break-in): make 8-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph to ~10 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles if possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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