🔧 Impreza - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the caliper and bracket, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new pads. This restores braking power and stops vibration or grinding caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground; chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake fully released during rotor removal/installation.
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor
• Caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Small pick tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, transmission in gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors won’t come off if it’s on).
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it resting on top). This helps the pistons push back easier.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the rear jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the rear pinch welds or rear support points.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel straight (not required, but keeps things stable).
• Remove the 2 caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a caliper hanger hook.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Slide the pads out by hand; use a flathead screwdriver if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver or pick tool.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the 2 bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• During reassembly: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub/rotor center with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet.
• If still stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s extraction holes and tighten evenly to push the rotor off.
• If it won’t budge, the parking brake shoes may be dragging—make sure the parking brake is released.

Step 6: If needed, back off the parking brake adjuster (drum-in-hat)

• On the rotor hat, remove the small rubber access plug (if equipped) using a flathead screwdriver.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster to retract the shoes.
• Turn a little at a time, then retry rotor removal.

Step 7: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush until smooth and rust-free.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (avoid the wheel studs and braking surfaces).
• Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove packing oil.
• Install the new rotor. Hold it in place by hand (or temporarily with 1 lug nut if needed).

Step 8: Service slide pins and reinstall the bracket

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket (they’re the smooth pins the caliper moves on).
• Wipe old grease off and apply fresh brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
• Reinstall the bracket and tighten with a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Install new hardware and pads

• Install new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Grease only metal-to-metal contact points.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

• Place an old pad against the piston face and compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level while compressing (remove excess if it gets too high).
• Reinstall the caliper over the new pads and start the slide bolts by hand.
• Tighten the slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads: do 6-10 medium stops from ~50 km/h to ~10 km/h, with light driving between stops to cool.
• Re-check lug nut torque after a short drive: 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹9,000-₹18,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹4,000-₹10,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹5,000-₹8,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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